Report

On the first ascent to the peak 40 years of TASSR — South

via the southern ridge from the Maly Kichkinekol pass. Stavropol Regional Federation of Alpinism of Russia.

Contact Information

• The ascent was made by climbers from Nevinnomyssk and Stavropol, with the goal of mastering a new route.
• Ascent leader
• Tereshchenko Artem Pavlovich
• Group members
• Pekin Andrey Nikolaevich

ASCENT ROUTE TO THE SUMMIT OF PELYCHACHAP from the west — I.6Б.

Route Description:

From the ice bivouacs, via the Middle Kichkinekol glacier plateau, approach the slopes of Talychat pass. To the left of the pass, the western slopes of Talychat peak begin. In the middle of the western slope, a large couloir descends — this is the route landmark. Ascend via the right snow-scree side of the lower part of the couloir to a rocky outcrop. Then:

• through rocks, up and to the right via a small snowy couloir;
• then left via fine scree to reach a large inclined ledge. Along it:
• up for 20 m, bypassing the walls on the right;
• after 50 m, reach a grassy ledge. Along the ledge, head left to a stream, bypassing wet slabs, then ascend rocks to large slabs. Across them, left onto a large scree.

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Trapeziya Peak – 3800 m

Ascent to the Main summit via the wall of the Eastern ridge — category 4A.

Description of the ascent route to the summit

The path from the camp to the upper Trapeziya glacier plateau can be found in the description of category 2A route. Across the plateau to the foot of the Eastern ridge. At the bottom of the snowy slope, cross the bergschrund and continue ascending on snow (55°), 70–80 m, belay! To the base of a 1.5 m rusty streak running through the entire visible massif of rocks left-up-right. Up the rocks (many loose stones!) in the direction of the streak (belay! Pitons!). Along the streak up 140–150 m (pitons!) to an inclined ledge running in the same direction. Along the ledge, 130–140 m to its end (pitons!) at the level of the couloir throat — a control cairn. To the right of the ledge is a couloir — DO NOT ENTER — (stones, avalanches from the pre-summit depression!). From the end of the ledge left-up 180 m (belay! Pitons!) on rocks to a black overhanging wall under the ridge. The wall is a system of snow-ice couloirs separated by steep rocky ridges. Ascent up the rocks “Belay! Very tense climbing! Pitons!”. Behind the wall is an exit to the ridge slabs and along them to a black wet wall on the ridge “control cairn”. Bypass this wall (40 m) to the right along the boundary of rocks and a steep (more than 45°) snow patch and again exit to the snowy ridge (pitons!). Along the steep snowy ridge (80 m, belay!) ascent to the summit. From the base of the Eastern ridge to the summit is 14–16 hours. There are no bivouac sites on the entire route to the summit. Descent from the summit via category 2B route to the bivouac takes 2.5–3 hours. The number of participants in the group is not more than 4 people. Initial bivouac — lake under Trapeziya glacier.

Equipment for a group of 4 people:

• rope — 2 × 40 m;
• expendable cordelette — 10 m;

Ascent Passport.

1. Region — West Caucasus, Uzunkol valley.
2. Peak Trapezia (Main/3743 m/) via East wall
3. Route category — 5B, first ascent
4. Route description: height difference — 450 m average slope 60°, length of sections 5B–6B –350 m
5. Pitons hammered on ascent: rock — 80 (10 left in place)
6. Number of climbing hours — 14 + 4 processing 1978, July 12 — approach to the route I3; July 14 — route processing — I20;

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Uzunkol Valley. Section number in the 1999 classification table - 2.3
2. Trapezia Main via SE wall (3743 m).
3. Proposed 5B category of difficulty. First ascent.
4. Route character - rock.
5. Height difference: from the assault bivouac to the summit: 580 m wall section: 350 m.
6. Length wall section: 430 m.

2. Ascent to the north-west peak from the Morды valley — cat. diff. 2A

From the "Udzunkol" camp along the right bank of the Morды river to the old koshi, cross to the left bank and along the trail to the large moraine of the Dalar glacier. Along the moraine to its middle part, where it flattens. From here to the left-down and further up the slopes to the talus terrace under the NW edge of Trapezia. The bivouac site. From the camp 3.5-4 hours. From the bivouac:

• up steep talus upwards in the direction of the huge chute-couloir;
• to the right of it — along slabs and rocks to the place of its narrowing;
• crossing on snow (belay!) to the left side of the couloir;
• further up along the stepped rocks and shelves from island to island — ascent to a heavily destroyed rocky ridge;
• along it — to the "central" rocky island (belay!). From the island to the rocks straight-up (belay!) to a large smoothed rocky block on the slope under the peak. Exit to it along narrow shelves and short walls (belay! Pitons!), and further along the destroyed rocks to the ridge under the gendarme.

Route Description:

From the bivouac under Тreзубец, ascend via talus (snow at the beginning of summer) to approach the southern ridge of the Western peak. Climb the talus slope and then a couloir to reach the first depression in the ridge, left of the First Western peak. From the col, there are two paths to the summit:

• the first is directly along the ridge (protection required along the entire ridge!);
• the second is via a couloir to the col between the First and Second Western peaks. From the col, climb left up steep rocks to the First, and right to the Second peak. From the Second Western peak, follow the ridge and ledges (right of the ridge) to reach a couloir with a R5 plug. Snow may be present there at the beginning of summer. Descend the couloir on its left side or through the plug from the top to inclined ledges, which may be covered in snow. Traverse the sharp R8 ridge with careful protection. The descent from R9 via steep slabs and ledges leads to a wide, talus col on the main ridge of the peak. Continue along talus ledges, leaving the Eastern peak to the left, to reach a narrow couloir that leads to a small col in the ridge. Inclined smooth slabs are located under the couloir. The R10 section is climbed on the left under a balcony, from which a wall is ascended (the first 4 m are overhanging — belaying is necessary for the first climber) to reach the Eastern peak.

Report

on traversing 1st, 2nd Western — Eastern peaks of Trezubets 2B category of the team led by Popov V.I.

I. Climbing Passport