Route Description:

From the ice bivouacs, via the Middle Kichkinekol glacier plateau, approach the slopes of Talychat pass. To the left of the pass, the western slopes of Talychat peak begin.

In the middle of the western slope, a large couloir descends — this is the route landmark.

Ascend via the right snow-scree side of the lower part of the couloir to a rocky outcrop. Then:

  • through rocks, up and to the right via a small snowy couloir;
  • then left via fine scree to reach a large inclined ledge.

Along it:

  • up for 20 m, bypassing the walls on the right;
  • after 50 m, reach a grassy ledge.

Along the ledge, head left to a stream, bypassing wet slabs, then ascend rocks to large slabs. Across them, left onto a large scree.

Via the large couloir, with a traverse of the upper part of the snowy slope up and to the left for 80 m, ascend to a saddle. From it, via a rocky, heavily serrated ridge, reach the summit. From the bivouac — 4.5 hours.

The descent from the summit is along the ridge into a col towards peak "3450". From the col:

  • right along ledges and a snowy couloir;
  • and at the bottom — via a narrow gully, descend left onto grey scree;
  • and then back to the bivouac via the ascent route.

From the summit — 2.5 hours.

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Sources

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