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2. Ascent to the north-west peak from the Morды valley — cat. diff. 2A

From the "Udzunkol" camp along the right bank of the Morды river to the old koshi, cross to the left bank and along the trail to the large moraine of the Dalar glacier. Along the moraine to its middle part, where it flattens. From here to the left-down and further up the slopes to the talus terrace under the NW edge of Trapezia. The bivouac site. From the camp 3.5-4 hours.

From the bivouac:

• up steep talus upwards in the direction of the huge chute-couloir;
• to the right of it — along slabs and rocks to the place of its narrowing;
• crossing on snow (belay!) to the left side of the couloir;
• further up along the stepped rocks and shelves from island to island — ascent to a heavily destroyed rocky ridge;
• along it — to the "central" rocky island (belay!).

From the island to the rocks straight-up (belay!) to a large smoothed rocky block on the slope under the peak. Exit to it along narrow shelves and short walls (belay! Pitons!), and further along the destroyed rocks to the ridge under the gendarme.

Passage:

• Pass the gendarme head-on (belay!)
• Further along the ridge to the north-west peak

From the bivouac to the peak — 6-7 hours. Descent along the ascent route to the bivouac takes 3-3.5 hours.

When descending, pay attention to the choice of path. Do not enter the couloirs — rocks! Hazardous!

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in the group — 2-3 training units
2. Initial bivouac — under the north-west edge
3. Departure time from bivouac — 5-6 am
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) rope 2 × 30 m; b) expendable reepschnur — 2 m; c) rock pitons — 3-4 pcs.; d) rock hammers — 2 pcs.; e) carabiners — 6-6 pcs.