Uzlovaya

I. Ascent to Uzlovaya peak via Belleva pass, category 1A difficulty From Uzunkol alpine camp along the right bank of the Myrdy river to the second stream flowing down from the slopes of the Myrdy gorge. Climb to the right of the stream over scree, then over grassy slopes to a large green terrace — campsite. From the camp — 3.5 hours. From the camp straight up, bypassing the terminal moraine on the right, and further through snowy ascents, exit into the cirque below Belleva pass. Climb to the pass to the left of the outcropping rocks of the Jalpanol ridge. From the camp to the pass — 3 hours. From the pass to the right along a straightforward ridge (200 m) to the first sentry. Bypass on the right along a ledge (belay!). Further along the left side of the ridge to the second sentry, which is bypassed on the left via a 3 m internal corner with an exit onto the ridge. From here along the broken ridge to the second sentry. Climb to it from left to right with an exit onto the ridge (belay!). From here, a snowy ridge follows for 150 m at 25°. Along the left side of the ridge (cornices on the right!!!) exit to the summit. From the pass to the summit — 3 hours. Descent from the summit to the camp along the ascent route takes 2–2.5 hours.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants in the group — training detachment
2. Initial campsite — green terrace

M53. Peak Uzunkol via the Northwest Ridge

(rock route, category 2B difficulty, led by a Czechoslovak team, 1973) From "Uzunkol", follow the right bank of the Myrdy River to the first shepherds' huts. Then, cross two branches of the river and follow the trail to a large clearing, 200 m before the rockfall on the left bank of Myrdy. From here:

• Ascend left-upwards along grassy slopes and overgrown moraine, bypassing the false peak that rises with large sheer walls above the fork of Myrdy — Kichkinekol.
• Continue along grassy slopes and scree to the cirque between the northwest and west ridges of Peak Uzunkol.
• From here, ascend the scree slope, a short snowpatch, and rocks to the depression in the northwest ridge. From "Uzunkol" — 3.5 hours. Then:
• Follow the ridge to the right and, bypassing the first gendarme on the left via a large ledge and slope, overcome the second gendarme "head-on", leaving the rock "finger" below to the right.
• From here, descend on the right side of the ridge to a col to the next small gendarme, which is bypassed on the left via a ledge R0.

1. Ascent from Kichkinekol Pass - category 2B difficulty
2. Ascent via the northwest ridge - category 3B difficulty (Description of the path as you move towards the summit)
3. Ascent from Kichkinekol Pass - category 2B difficulty From the "Uzunkol" camp, along the left bank of the Kichkinekol River to the lateral step of the Sredny Kichkinekol glacier cirque. Along the stream, up the path to the green step under the "sheep's foreheads" - a bivouac site - "ice overnight stays". From the camp - 2.5 hours. From the bivouac, left into the green couloir and then along the ridge of the large gray moraine to the snow-ice plateau of the Sredny Kichkinekol glacier. From here, to the right across the plateau to the slopes of Kichkinekol Pass. Along the middle part of the slope (in teams!) - then closer to the slopes of Filtr peak (insurance!) - exit to the upper snow step and along it to the left to Kichkinekol Pass. From the bivouac site - 2-2.5 hours. From the pass, to the right, and then to the left-down, bypassing the "sheep's foreheads" along the shelf and then along the couloir - exit to a gentle scree. From here, to the left of the ridge to the gendarme. Bypass the gendarme on the left along the shelf (insurance! Pitons!) and exit to the ridge to the "trapezoidal" gap. Descent into the gap - fixed ropes (insurance!). Behind the snow bridge of the gap - (insurance!) - ascent to the left to the gentle part of the ridge, along which to the beginning of the descent into the next "triangular" 20-meter gap. At the beginning, to the right along the corner 6 m to a platform and then descent to the left along the rocks (fixed ropes, which are removed on the return). To the sharp snow bridge - (insurance!). From the bridge, to the left-up along the shelf 20 m, then along the chimney-crack to the right-up (insurance!) to the snow ridge. Further along the left side of the ridge - exit to the summit (on the ridge to the right, cornices!!).

3. Ascent to the summit of Fil'tr from the Burevestnik Pass – category 3A

The path to the Kichkinekol Pass can be found in the description of the category 2B route. From the Kichkinekol Pass, descend to the Zamok glacier plateau and, traversing the snowy slopes below the Fil'tr summit, approach the Burevestnik Pass. When exiting the glacier into a wide, eroded gully, there is a randkluft. Cross it on the right side of the rocks – there is flowstone and snow. Then ascend on the right side of the gully (icy rocks), and in its middle part, transition to the left side, and after 50 m, exit onto the Burevestnik Pass via a steep snowy slope. From the Kichkinekol Pass – 1.5–2 hours. From the pass, ascend to the right along the rocks to the first gendarme, which is bypassed on the left along the boundary between snow and rocks. It is possible to pass it head-on. The second gendarme is bypassed on the right, 10 m away (with protection!). Then proceed through the snow and transition into an icy gully, 60°, 40 m – with protection! Ice screws are required! From the gully, exit onto a steep rocky ascent composed of slabs, 60 m. There are few ledges on this section – protection is necessary! Pitons are required! After the ascent, traverse the ridge on the left along snowy ledges, leading to a short, negative rock wall – 2.5 m. Piton required! Behind the wall, exit onto the ridge, which transitions into a snowy slope (total 160 m) and reach the Fil'tr summit. The cairn is located somewhat to the left and below, on a small rocky outcrop. From the Burevestnik Pass – 2.5–3 hours.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Uzunkol tourist center, Western Caucasus
3. Ascent route — FILTR peak 3760 m, northern counterfort
4. Proposed category difficulty — 3B category difficulty
5. Route characteristics — height difference 760 m, average steepness 45–50°
6. Pitons hammered:
   • rock: 18 (for belay), — (for creating intermediate belay points)
   • ice: 3 (for belay), — (for creating intermediate belay points)
   • bolt: — (for belay), — (for creating intermediate belay points)

2. Ascent to the summit of Filtr via the northwestern edge Cat. 3B See the path to the bivouac in the description of the Cat. 2B route From the bivouac:

• along the stream on the right-upwards, under the rocks of the NW edge of Filtr peak;
• traverse the snowfield to the right-upwards and then along the slabs and "ram's foreheads" to the gorge (in rope teams!);
• from the gorge, exit to the snowy slope (35–40°) and along it to the rocky outcrop and beyond it along the snowy exit to the ridge. From here:
• left-upwards 330–350 m to the snowy couloir;
• bypass the couloir to the right-upwards via the rocks to a large slab (protection! Hook!);

M93. Chat-Bashi Western peak via the northern spur

(rock route, category 3A, first ascent by P. Zakharov, 1960) From Chat bivouac, head left towards the talus slopes of Chat-Bashi peak. From here, traverse diagonally up and to the right at an angle of 35-40° to reach the western ridge of the peak. If you ascend too high along the ridge, the descent into the cirque of Chat pass will be challenging, involving rappelling down steep walls and rock fractures. After descending to the cirque via simple slopes, ascend to the pass via snowy and talus slopes. From the pass, descend to its eastern side and approach the base of the northern spur via a snowy slope - it's the right-hand spur relative to the large couloir that runs from the summit ridge down to the pass. Then, ascend leftwards via ledges and short walls to reach the shoulder of the spur. From the shoulder, follow the ridge, tackling an 80-meter wall (R2, bypass on the left side), a rocky "saw" (R4, ascend directly), and then ascend via rocks to the left of the ridge and a difficult 7-meter wall to reach the main ridge of the spur. Continue along the ridge to a grey inclined slab (R7). Ascend via a crack that leads to a small depression, and from there back onto the ridge. If the slab is icy or covered in snow, ascend to the depression from the base of the right edge of the slab via a section of overhanging rock (tense climbing). Follow the degraded 200-meter rocky ridge to reach the Western peak. The ascent from bivouac takes 7-8 hours. Descend from the peak via talus slopes in the direction of Chat campsite. The descent from the peak to bivouac takes 2 hours.

• initial bivouac - Chat campsite, departure time - no later than 5:00 AM;
• avoid entering the couloir to the left of the route - rockfall and avalanches!
• the route is generally safe from rockfall, except for the lower section before reaching the ridge;

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category: rock 2. Ascent area: tourist center "Uzungol", Western Caucasus 3. Ascent route: peak CHAT-BASHI 3760 m, northern edge 4. Proposed category difficulty: 4B 5. Route characteristics: height difference 860 m, average steepness 50–55° 6. Pitons driven: — for belay: 32 rock pitons — for creating artificial climbing holds (ITCH): none — ice screws: none

Route Description

Ascent to Kichkinekol Pass via the "Zamok from Burevestnik Pass" route. Descend from the pass down simple snowy slopes onto the Zamok glacier plateau. Cross the glacier leftwards, ascending along the flat section in separate steps towards the base of the Eastern peak's buttress, visible throughout the approach. From here, to the right of the icefall, follow a faintly defined snowy ridge (rocks on the right!) to reach the upper plateau below the eastern ridge of the peak. From Kichkinekol Pass - 2 hours 30 minutes. Ascend the ridge from the plateau to a snowy col, then continue up the slabs to the Eastern peak (overhanging cornices on the right!). From the Eastern peak, follow the snowy ridge rightwards to inclined slabs and a sheer wall. Descend the wall with a chimney for 25 m, reach an inclined snowy ledge, and follow it rightwards onto the ridge. Descend a steep ridge to a col. From the Eastern peak - 3 hours. Along the col's ridge, approach a gendarme composed of large blocks (proceeding head-on). From the gap behind the gendarme, ascend the right side of a 15-meter wall (avoiding the corner - loose rocks!), then follow the ridge and a series of short, steep chimneys to reach the Western peak. From the col - 1 hour 30 minutes. Descend from the Western peak along the ridge to a col with a rocky "finger", then move to the southern side of the ridge. Traverse the peak from the south, reach a bifurcating ridge, and descend along its right branch onto the Zamok glacier plateau; then ascend to Kichkinekol Pass. From the Western peak - 3 hours.

• The traverse is possible in the opposite direction;
• When descending from the peaks, check the snow condition on the slabs!

Chyornye Bashni Peak — 3550 m

Traverse in both directions — category 3A From the Uzunkol alpine camp, follow the left bank of the Kichkinekol River to the stream flowing from the Sr. Kichkinekol glacier. To the left of the stream, ascend to a large lateral step — "ice overnight stays". From here, ascend via a grassy couloir and then along a steep grey moraine to the Sr. Kichkinekol glacier plateau. Cross the plateau to approach the slopes of the Kichkinekol pass. Ascend the snowy slope to the bergschrund (belay!), cross via a bridge closer to the slopes of Filtr Peak, and then continue up the snowy slope (150 m up to 45°, belay!) to a short scree slope and ascend to the pass. From the pass, descend south and cross the Zamok glacier plateau to approach the 1st terrace of the Chungur glacier from the left. With a slight gain in height, traverse to the middle part of the Chyornye Bashni glacier. Cross the glacier towards the buttress of the eastern peak. Ascend to the right of the icefall via a somewhat indistinct ridge (avoid the lower part of the buttress — rockfall!) and reach the plateau. From the Kichkinekol pass to the plateau — 2–2.5 hours. The ascent to the eastern peak (rope teams!) begins from the plateau via the southeast ridge. Ascend via snow to a snowy saddle in the ridge and then upwards via slabs — belay! Rockfall! Reach the peak via a snowy slope to the right CORNICES!! From the plateau to the peak — 1–1.5 hours. Descend from the eastern peak to the right via a snowy ridge to inclined slabs and a sheer wall. Here, set up a 25 m sport descent via the wall with a chimney. Belay! After descending to an inclined snowy ledge and along it to the right towards the ridge. Descend via a steep ridge — belay! — to the col between the eastern and western peaks. From the eastern peak to the col — 3–3.5 hours.