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Chugur-Bashi Peak

Ascent from the saddle between Chugur-Jar peak and Chugur-Bashi peak along the western ridge, category 2B. From "Uzunkol" alpine camp along the left bank of the Kichkinekol river to the stream flowing from the Sr. Kichkinekol glacier. Along the stream (trail) ascend to a side green terrace and further exit to the upper part of old "ram's foreheads" and along the left gray moraine (trail) – exit to the Sr. Kichkinekol glacier plateau. From the alpine camp to the plateau — 3–3.5 hours. Across the plateau towards the slopes of Kichkinekol pass and up to the bergschrund, keeping closer to the slopes of Filtr peak. Cross the bergschrund via a bridge (belay!) and ascend 120 m along the snowy slope up to 40°. Ascend to a snow step and through it exit to Kichkinekol pass. From the plateau to the pass — 1.5–2 hours. From the pass descend to the Zamok glacier plateau and left, circumventing along the foot of Kichkinekol peak and Chugur-Jar peak and, not reaching the icefall, exit to the slopes of Chugur-Jar and along them – to the saddle towards Chugur-Bashi. From Kichkinekol pass — 1.5–2 hours.

Route Description:

The ascent to Chugur Pass (following the "Kichkinekol from Chugur Pass" route) is to the right of the "Parus" rock. From Kichkinekol Pass, it takes 2 hours. From the pass, follow the right side of the 500-meter ridge, initially a broken rocky ridge (watch out for cornices on the left!), then a snowy ridge to reach the summit. From Chugur Pass, it takes 2.5 hours. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route to Chugur Pass and takes 1.5 hours.

• When ascending from the northern side, from Chugur valley, set up the initial bivouac under the Chugur glacier on the right lateral moraine, on the shore of a dried-up lake. From here, the ascent to Chugur Pass goes along the right side of the snowy slopes of the glacier, then up a steep (up to 40°) 80-meter snowy slope.

Chungur-Dvar Peak

Ascent from the col from Chungur-Bashi along the eastern ridge, category 2A difficulty. From the col from Chungur-Bashi peak, move left onto the ridge and ascend the rocks to a large ledge. Traverse the ledge for 20 m (belay!) and then ascend left and upwards for 10 m; follow the wall with an inner corner (pitons!) to the next ledge. From here, use a 15-meter inner corner (belay! piton!) to reach the shoulder of the ridge's rocky ascent. Along the ridge to a 5-meter slab and traverse right (belay!) to ascend to the main ridge. Follow the ridge to where it becomes less steep and then along a narrow crest to reach the summit. From the col to the summit takes 2.5–3 hours. Descent from the summit follows the category 1B route to Chungur Pass. The further descent route coincides with the ascent route.

Recommendations for Climbers:

I. Number of participants in the group - 2 training units II. Initial bivouac: upper Kichkinekolye, without overnight stay. When ascending Chungur-Bashi, bivouac at Kichkinokol Pass. III. Departure time from bivouac - not later than 4–5 am.

PASSPORT

ASCENTS

1. Class of ascent
   • rock
2. Area of ascent
   • West Caucasus, Uzunkol region.
3. Route of ascent
   • peak CHUNGUR-LZHAR 3668 m. North edge 3B cat. diff.
4. Characteristics of ascent:
   • height difference of the route — 700 m.

Route Description

There are separate descriptions and diagrams for all the peaks included in the traverse (see routes):

• "Chungur-Jar from Chungur Pass" (77)
• "Chungur-Jar via the eastern ridge" (78)
• "Chungur-bashi via the western ridge" (79) The description and diagram for "Chungur-Jar via the eastern ridge" (78) should be read in reverse when traversing. On the saddle to the left, there are large snow cornices! After ascending to the summit of Chungur-bashi ("Chungur-bashi via the western ridge"), the descent from it towards the saddle to the peak of Kanny-kaya proceeds mostly to the right of the ridge line: along simple broken rocks, ledges, and slabs. The descent to the saddle takes 1.5 hours. The ascent to the summit of Kanny-kaya is similar in terrain character to the descent from Chungur-bashi to the saddle: moving along broken rocks, bypassing small gendarmes to the right along ledges. If the ledges are covered with snow, the gendarmes are passed "head-on," which will increase the ascent time to the summit by one hour. In the gaps between the gendarmes, there are snow cornices at the beginning of summer! From the saddle to the summit: 2.5 hours.

Sports team of Voroshilovgradkhimstroy complex Uzunkol alpine camp

REPORT

on the first ascent to the Shidag-Mingen peak via the northern ridge, category 3B, on July 27, 1980 Severodonetsk From the bivouac on the moraine in the cirque of B. Nakhar and Dvuzubka peaks, along the moraine ridge on the left side of the North Nakhar glacier, then ascent to the right and upwards along the glacier to the bergschrund under the couloir leading to Igolchaty pass. 1 hour from the overnight stay. Cross the bridge from right to left (belay), exit to simple rocks and along the talus shelf - under the overhangs on the left side of the couloir. Under the overhangs, along the boundary of rocks and snow, ascent to the start of a 20m 60° chimney. Up the chimney (rocks! pitons!) and then along the 40m 45° inclined slabs (belay), exit to the talus couloir. 200m along the couloir - simultaneous movement - from left to right towards the snow and then 40m upwards along the rocks like "sheep's foreheads" (belay! pitons!). Exit under the finger on the pass (convenient bivouac spot) and then to the pass. This is the I control point. 2 hours from the bergschrund. From Igolchaty pass, along the left side of the wall, 20m 80°, exit to a shelf. From the shelf straight up along a 7m 90° chimney and then along an inclined crack under the overhangs (difficult climbing), exit to a narrow (0.5m) horizontal shelf - 10m under the overhangs (careful belay!). At the end of the shelf is the II control point.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock climbing. 2. Ascent region — Western Caucasus. Nakhar gorge. 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Mt. Shidag-Lingen (3450 m) via the northern ridge. 4. Expected difficulty category — 3B technical difficulty. 5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 520 m Average steepness — 50°–55°. Route length — 840 m. Length of sections with 4th technical difficulty — 60 m 6. Pitons hammered for protection: rock — 29 ice — 0
bolts — 0 7. Number of walking hours: 14 h

Ascent Log

1. Category: Technical.
2. Region: Western Caucasus, Uzunkol, Myrdy gorge.
3. Object: Shokoladny peak (3650), via the center of the SW wall.
4. Complexity category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 620 m;
   • Section lengths:
     • 6th category — 115 m;
     • 5th category — 344 m;

Russian Mountaineering Championship High-Altitude Technical Class

Ascent Report

To Shokoladny Peak (3650 m) via the Southwest Wall (R. Despie, 1975) 5B category, Rocky. Team FANO

• Team Coach: Nikonov A.E. (1st sports category)
• Leader: Shurygin S.D. (1st sports category)
• Participants: Koroleva E.I. (1st sports category), Ryndyk A.P. (1st sports category)

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge, section number according to the 2001 classification table:

Championship of the Southern and North Caucasian Federal Districts, high-altitude technical class Team of Stavropol Krai — 2

Report

on the ascent to the summit Shokoladny peak via the southwest wall, 5B, rock climbing. Despье Route Stavropol, 2024

Ascent Passport

1. Western Caucasus, Uzunkol, Myrd gorge, route 2.3.132.
2. Summit: Shokoladny peak (3650), via the southwest wall (Despье, 1975)