Route Description:
From the bivouac under Тreзубец, ascend via talus (snow at the beginning of summer) to approach the southern ridge of the Western peak. Climb the talus slope and then a couloir to reach the first depression in the ridge, left of the First Western peak.
From the col, there are two paths to the summit:
- the first is directly along the ridge (protection required along the entire ridge!);
- the second is via a couloir to the col between the First and Second Western peaks.
From the col, climb left up steep rocks to the First, and right to the Second peak.
From the Second Western peak, follow the ridge and ledges (right of the ridge) to reach a couloir with a R5 plug. Snow may be present there at the beginning of summer. Descend the couloir on its left side or through the plug from the top to inclined ledges, which may be covered in snow.
Traverse the sharp R8 ridge with careful protection.
The descent from R9 via steep slabs and ledges leads to a wide, talus col on the main ridge of the peak. Continue along talus ledges, leaving the Eastern peak to the left, to reach a narrow couloir that leads to a small col in the ridge. Inclined smooth slabs are located under the couloir.
The R10 section is climbed on the left under a balcony, from which a wall is ascended (the first 4 m are overhanging — belaying is necessary for the first climber) to reach the Eastern peak.
Descend from the peak and return to the large talus col via the ascent route. From the col, descend via talus in a wide couloir and continue to the bivouac. The entire traverse takes 6–8 hours.
When traversing in the opposite direction:
- Ascend to the main ridge via the wide couloir;
- Climb to the Eastern peak;
- Follow the ridge to the Western peaks;
- Descend from them to the col (see the beginning of the description).
When ascending, traverse the couloir with a plug along its bottom or right side.
- The ascent can be completed in one day without an intermediate bivouac, starting from "Узункол" no later than 5:00 AM;
- At the beginning of summer, bivouac sites are covered in snow, and there is no water; the camp should be set up closer to the stream.
