ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — winter ascents

2. Ascent area: Gissarsky ridge, Surkh-Kukh spur

3. Peak, its height and ascent route: p. Surkh-Nu (2980) via South-West ridge

4. Estimated difficulty category — 1B

5. Route characteristics: height difference 1380 m, average slope 30–35°

6. Length of sections: I — 960 m, II — 80 m, III — m, IV — m, V — m, VI — m.

7. Pitons driven:

   rock — 0 ice — 0 bolt — 0

8. Number of travel hours — 5–6 h

9. Number of nights and their characteristics: one, convenient

10. Full name of team leader and participants, their sports qualification:

    1. Leonov K.N. CMS
    2. Kashina O.G. CMS
    3. Doktorov A.A. CMS
    4. Gaponenko V.A. 1st sports category
    5. Porotnikov V.L. 1st sports category
    6. Shkurko S.D. 1st sports category Team coach Leonov K.N.

11. Date of departure and return: 9–10/II–1965

Panorama of Surkh-Nu peak. Camera "Zenit", lens "Helios-44". Recommended route 1B difficulty category, 1B ridge.

Route description

The ascent to Surkh-Nu peak via 1B ridge is done from the Surkh-Nu river cirque. The approach from Lyuchob village along an old dirt road takes 1.5 h to the mouth of the Surkh-Nu river.

200 m before reaching the Surkh-Nu river (base camp location) turn left-up:

• Along the slope, 1 h, to reach the ridge.
• Then along the ridge. A small shoulder-saddle, 15 min walk.
• From here along the ridge (alternating simple rocks and snowfields) — exit to a small angular peak, 1.5–2 h walk, after which the ridge turns sharply to the right.
• Along the ridge 200 m to a steep snowy ascent with rare rocky outcrops.
• Steep section, 200 m, to be overcome in teams (belay!) with exit to a gentle summit ridge.
• Along it 150 m to the summit.

Descent from the summit via the ascent route. The ascent takes 5–6 h.