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I. Climbing category - winter ascent 2. Climbing area - Issarsky Ridge Orog. Surkh-Nukh 3. Peak, its height and ascent route - Surkh-Nu, 2980 m, via the Southwest ridge 4. Estimated difficulty category - 2B 5. Route characteristics: height difference 1380 m, average slope 40°–50°, length of sections R1–20 m, R2–70 m, R3–60 m, R4–…–m, R5–…–m, R6–…–m. 6. Number of pitons driven:
For belaying: rock 10, ice, drilled. For creating ITO:
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Number of travel hours - 9–10 h
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Number of nights and their characteristics - 1 good.
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Full name of team leader and participants, their sports qualification:
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Matychuk V.Yu. - 1st sports category
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Karotyshev I.A. - 1st sports category
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Sharipov A.R. - 2nd sports category
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Minosyan G. - 2nd sports category
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Buryak R.E. - 2nd sports category
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Pursunov A.A. - 2nd sports category Team coach: Leonov K.N.
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Date of departure and return - February 10, 1985
The peak Surkh-Nu is visible from any area of Dushanbe.
The route begins from an old dirt road that runs under the slopes of this peak and goes further along the Lyubob River valley.
Ascent through the valley along the stream that leads to the slopes of the left rocky massif of Surkh-Nu peak. This takes 2 h 30 min - 3 h.
The route then follows the counterfort of the Southwest ridge:
- Along the snowy ridge, the beginning is straightforward.
- As you ascend, the slope steepness increases to 50°.
- The route then leads to rocky outcrops.
- The rocks are monolithic.
- Overcoming an inner corner 25–30 m long, with a steepness of 70°.
- For belaying, protection devices and pitons are used.
- The location for organizing a reception point is convenient.
- Then exit to snow shelves.
Caution! Under the snow - névé.
Alternating belay. Along the shelves to a steep snowy ascent that leads to the summit ridge. Passing this section takes 3 h - 3 h 30 min.
- The snow is dry and deep.
- Movement is hindered by strong gusts of wind.
Along the ridge - exit to the summit. Passing this section takes 1 h to 1 h 30 min.
Descent from the summit along the Southwest ridge, via the 1B category route.
The ascent takes 9–10 h.
