Fig. 5

14. 4th peak of the Crown of Siam from the northeast, route 26 cat., fig. 5

The path from the base camp to the upper part of the couloir under Nishon pass is described in route 11.

In the upper part, traverse left into a couloir that widens into the slopes. Reach the rocks, which are heavily destroyed shelves with large, standalone rock blocks. The slope, with a steepness of up to 40° in the upper part, leads under the walls of the main peak. To the right of it, separated by a sharp drop in the ridge, the second peak is visible. Before reaching the ridge, overcome a monolithic wall with a cleft, which is bypassed on the right between rocks, and then up through the cleft to the left. Insurance through ledges.

Ascend to the ridge, the southeastern side of which consists of solid slabs. Follow the slabs to reach steep rock blocks forming the highest point of the 4th peak of the Crown of Siam.

The ascent to the peak from the couloir takes 2 hours.

The descent from the peak is along the ridge leading to the saddle between the 4th and 3rd peaks of the Crown of Siam, on its left side, emerging onto an extensive slab inclined towards the Siam Valley. Traverse it diagonally to reach an inclined inner corner. Insurance is alternating, with pitons. Organizing a sport descent is possible.

After the inner corner, a second slab leads to the saddle between the peaks. Follow rocks of medium difficulty, transitioning into convenient shelves, to descend onto a snow patch.

Below the slopes of the peaks of the Crown of Siam, reach Four pass. Return to the base camp via the pass.

The ascent takes 7–8 hours.