72
— Ascent to Kulay Dzhovanon Peak
via the NE ridge — Cat. 2B
The ascent to the peak is made from the "Zelenaya Polyana" bivouac, located below Bivachnaya Peak. From the camp, one should go up along the stream flowing from the cirque of Khamsai, Ular, Khyrss, and Kulay Dzhovanon peaks. Bypassing a small lake, exit onto the firn fields of the Kulay Dzhovanon Glacier, and follow them to the visible saddle between Khyrss Peak and the northeastern ridge of Kulay Dzhovanon.
The saddle is snowy, with breaks in the summer, and crevasses. The ascent to the saddle is relatively gentle, but the path is blocked by a bergschrund, which is overcome via snow bridges.
From the saddle, the ridge is visible up to the first peak, sometimes called Maly Kulay Dzhovanon. The route from the saddle begins directly along the ridge without detours. Having traversed two rope lengths along it, approach low rock spires. It is impractical to bypass them due to significant height loss.
The ascent between these spires via a narrow cleft leads to the northern side of the ridge. On the northern side of the ridge, there are many wide and narrow ledges that lead directly to the pre-summit rise, bypassing two complex gendarmes. When detouring at the top, there are short sections of relatively difficult climbing with sufficient outcrops for reliable belays. Upon reaching the pre-summit shoulder, the final meters involve overcoming a rock "plug."
From the shoulder platform, the further path to the summit is visible. From the north, the summit tower drops with sheer walls to the glacier, while from the south, steep, rough slabs cut by cracks are visible.
From the platform to the low rock "fingers" on the ridge, a narrow ledge leads. Beyond the "fingers" lies a small dip, followed by a wall. Under the wall, in the dip, there is a wide crack crossing the ridge. The wall is 10 m high with a 70° incline. The ascent is challenging at the start when transitioning from the edge of the deep crack to the wall. Climbing is chest-level with piton belays.
The wall leads to a wide platform covered with small rubble. From this platform, ascend to the summit pinnacle. From the summit, the path to Kulay Dzhovanon Peak is visible.
Descend directly south from the summit, i.e., to the left of the ridge. The descent goes down non-steep slabs cut by deep cracks to a wide ledge on the right, which leads to a short, narrow couloir descending to the saddle. The descent is simultaneous without any technically difficult sections.
From the saddle, ascend via a narrow talus couloir leading to the "ram's foreheads." They are cut in the middle by a sufficiently wide crack that can accommodate a person, 6–8 m long.
Ascend through the crack to a small platform, then go left along a wide ledge with a small snowpatch. The ledge leads to a narrow cleft. Proceed directly up fairly steep slabs with minimal handholds under overhanging rocks, then move right to the right shoulder of the peak. From here, the summit is visible 80 m away. Ascend to the summit along the northern side of the ridge, as there are sufficient ledges and rock outcrops for belays.
Descend from the summit along the western ridge, then down the snowy slope to the right onto the Kulay Dzhovanon Glacier plateau. Continue down the glacier and valley to "Zelenaya Polyana."
Recommendations for Climbers
- Number of participants: 6–8 people
- Initial bivouac: "Zelenaya Polyana"
- Departure time: 5 hours
- Equipment for a group of 6: rock pitons — 8 pcs., hammers — 2 pcs., carabiners — 6 pcs., main ropes 3 x 30 m.
Time Calculation
"Zelenaya Polyana" — saddle: 2.5 hours Saddle — summit: 5.5 hours Descent from summit to "Zelenaya Polyana": 2 hours
Total: 10 hours.
First ascent made in 1970 by a group consisting of:
- Kasinsky V.V. — Leader
- Pletmintsev V.V. — Leader