15. Crown of Siam, traverse of 4 peaks from the south, route 36 cat. diff., fig. 5
The beginning of the traverse is described in route 12. From the 1st peak of the Crown of Siam, descend north along a ledge. Then follow rocks with steepness up to 55° and length of 80–90 m with good protrusions, which are more expedient to descend using a sport climbing technique down to a col.
From the col, traverse a gendarme on the left along a narrow talus ledge to a ridge of black crumbly rocks. Ascend along the ridge for 20 m to a large flat boulder. 10 m from the boulder, a steep couloir descends to the northwest, which is crossed in its upper part to exit onto a ledge that veers left from the couloir. At the end of the ledge, ascend a steep short groove to the ridge of the 2nd peak of the Crown of Siam. Then ascend easy slabs with a slight steepness to the summit.
The descent from the summit begins along the ridge to the left via a crack into a niche, from where a 40 m rope descent leads to a snowpatch that descends to the col between the 2nd and 3rd peaks.
The ascent to the 4th peak is described in route 13. Descend from the summit east along the ridge, and then along ledges to the left to the Nishon pass. From the pass, descend west on snow and then, bypassing the peaks of the Crown of Siam, return to the Four Pass and to the base camp. The traverse takes 8–9 hours.
16. Crown of Siam, traverse of 4 peaks from the north, route 36 cat. diff., fig. 5
The beginning of the traverse is described in route 14. Ascend to the 3rd peak of the Crown of Siam slightly to the right of the ridge via a snowy couloir. Descend from the summit along an easy rocky ridge to the col between the 3rd and 2nd peaks.
Above the col rises a wall, divided into parts by inclined cracks. In the left part of the wall, there is a ruined corner with hanging rocks. In the lower part, 20–30 m from the col, there is a convenient ledge with a protrusion. From this ledge, ascend to the right up an inclined cleft to the right edge. Then ascend parallel to the edge, 1 m to the left of it. A 5 m ascent leads to a chimney with a good belay anchor. Ascend the chimney to the wall. Ascend the wall and rocks of moderate difficulty to the summit.
From the summit, descend via easy slabs to the left along the route to the col between the 2nd peak and a gendarme. The gendarme is bypassed on the right. To do this, cross the upper part of a couloir that originates from the base of the gendarme, then traverse over the edge and along a ledge above the couloir, which originates from the col before the 1st peak, to exit onto the col.
Ascend to the 1st peak of the Crown of Siam via a wall, sticking to its left side to the start of a ledge. Along the ledge, ascend to the right and upwards to the summit. Protection is provided by pitons and rock features.
The descent from the summit is category 26 (route 12). The traverse takes about 14 hours.
