Ascent Passport

1. ASCENT CLASS — rock climbing
2. ASCENT REGION — Pamir-Alay, Igizak area
3. PEAK, ASCENT ROUTE — Hyrс, via the cleft in the western wall buttress
4. EXPECTED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 3B–4B
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: 1000 m elevation gain, ice and rock, main section is rock with an average steepness of 75° and a length of 200 m, 4th difficulty category.
6. 15 rock pitons hammered in for belaying
7. MOVING TIME — 8 hours for a team of two
8. NUMBER OF NIGHTS —
9. PARTICIPANTS' FULL NAMES — Kadmensky A.G. (1st sports category), Furman V.I. (Candidate for Master of Sports)

133

Ascent to the peak Hyrс from Vorobьиный Pass – Cat. 3A

The ascent to the summit is done from the "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac located below the peak Bivaчная. From the camp, one should go up along the stream flowing from the cirque of the peaks Khamsai, Ular, Hyrс, and Kulay Dzhovanon, to the old lateral moraine of the Ular glacier. From the moraine, ascend the snowfield (25–30°) to the Ular glacier plateau, from which exit to Vorobьиный Pass. Hyrс is a strongly serrated ridge with large differences in altitude. It is composed mainly of gray granites. The main summit is located in the middle, towering above the others. The ridge is sharp with sheer walls, stretched in the meridional direction. The ascent to the ridge begins from Vorobьиный Pass along the eastern snowy slope (25–30°) of the spur extending from the main ridge to the pass. It is better to enter the spur from the pass slightly to the left. From the snowy slope, exit onto the rocky spur (good holds, 25–30°) and ascend directly upwards for 120 m to the ridge with a snowy cornice overhanging to the west. Belaying is done through ledges. Further movement occurs along the ridge to the left towards the south. After passing the cornice, go left of the ridge, first on snow for 60 m, then ascend a 6 m high rock wall. Here, piton belaying is organized. From here, go 20 m on snow, and then on rocks with a gradient of 30–35° with good ledges and holds to exit below a 5 m long snowy cornice hanging from the ridge to the left (east) with a small overhang. The cornice is bypassed on the left under overhanging icicles. Belaying is done through ledges. Further, go on snow with alternate belaying (steep, wet snow — 180 m) to a gendarme with a flat top. The gendarme is ascended head-on. Belaying is done through ledges. After the gendarme, exit onto a snowy col, leaving a small sharp gendarme to the right.

Ascent Record

1. Ascent type — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Igizaki, Gissar Ridge.
3. Peak — Khyrс, 3760 m, from Kulay Djavanom glacier via the shortest route.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 2B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 350 m, average steepness — 65°.
6. Number of pitons driven — 17,

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Upper Siam, Gissar ridge.
3. Peak, ascent route — South-South-East buttress of Khodzha Lokan peak, 4767 m.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1300 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 860 m, average steepness of the wall part — 77°.
6. Pitons hammered:

1. Climbing class — technical
2. Climbing area — Upper Siama, Gissar Range
3. Climbing route — via the South-Southeast buttress
   • peak Khodja Lokan — 4767 m
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1250 m
   • length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 810 m
   • average steepness — 77°
6. Number of pitons: rock pitons for belay — 129

Ascent Passport

1. ASCENT CLASS: technical
2. ASCENT AREA, RANGE: Pamir-Alay, Gissar Range
3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: Khodzha Lokan (4767 m) via the Western part of the South face
4. DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: approximately VI category of difficulty
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS:
   • ELEVATION GAIN: 1170 m
   • LENGTH OF COMPLEX SECTIONS:
     • III — 50 m
     • IV — 250 m

Report

on the ascent of the regional council's alpine team to Khodja Lokan for the championship of the Central Council

Time	Section	Steepness	Length	Character of the section	Category/Complexity	Objective condition	Belay means	Notes
9:10–10:30	R0–R1	40°	350 m	scree shelves, gently sloping smoothed rocks, small walls, snow-ice couloir	3	good	ledges, pitons (4)
10:30–11:30	R1–R2	60°	120–150 m	walls with shelves	4	good	pitons (6), free climbing, control, Tur-1
11:50–12:30	R2–R3	80°	15 m	smooth wall with a slot at the top	5Б	good	pitons (2), pitons

Description

OF THE ASCENT ROUTE TO THE SUMMIT OF KHODZHA-LOKAN /"MECHTA", 4767/ VIA THE SOUTH-EAST RIDGE. Dushanbe 1962 If you fly from Dushanbe to Moscow and the plane goes directly north, not through the Baysun pass, you can see this mountain. Soon after takeoff, the southern folds of the Hissar range appear below. The Varzob River is under the plane. Dark gray rocks line the stream's banks. Higher up, mountains rise. Among the rocks, patches of snow appear. Ice... To the left, a tall, slender mountain on an icy pedestal emerges. Like the surrounding lower peaks, it is mostly dark gray, but stands out from its neighbors with its elegance and the fact that a huge bluish snow-ice "cushion" is "hanging" on its northeastern side, clinging to its "tip". Climbers call this mountain Mechta... In 1897, while traveling through the Pamir-Alay and reaching the upper reaches of the Khanaka River, Academician LIPSKY V.I. saw this peak and made the following note: "From the pass ... a high snowy ridge was visible, much higher than the one we were on... The main peak of this ridge, significantly rising above the ridge, is conical..., sharply distinguished by its height". (LIPSKY V.I. "Mountain Bukhara. Results of three years of travel in Central Asia in 1897-1899." St. Petersburg, 1902, part 1, p. 126). This area began to attract the attention of mountaineers as the alpinism exploration of the Pamir-Alay began, particularly after the establishment of the Varzob alpine camp. In June 1953, during one of the reconnaissance hikes, a group from the alpine camp ascended to the summit of Bakhubi (Udal'naya-Tadj.), located on the watershed of the Sioma and Maykhura rivers. A participant in this ascent, now an alpinism instructor A.G. SHUKUROV, recounts that, looking at the panorama that opened up from the summit, with a beautiful pyramid in the center, the group leader A.A. KUZNETSOV exclaimed, "This is a dream!"

Photo 15. View of the second tier bastion from R16. Recommended ascent route:

• Photo 15. View of the second tier bastion from R16
• Photo 16. Section R17–R18. Rope descent. Photo 17. Entering the chimney R18–R19. Photo 18. Passing the chimney R19–R22.

ASCENT REPORT

1. Ascent type — rock climbing.
2. Climbing area — Gissar Range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Khodzha-Lokan, 4767 m, South Face.
4. Anticipated difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1100 m, b) length of 5B difficulty sections — 525 m, c) average steepness — 70°.
6. Pitons driven: