Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — technical.
- Ascent area — Upper Siam, Gissar ridge.
- Peak, ascent route — South-South-East buttress of Khodzha Lokan peak, 4767 m.
- Proposed difficulty category — 5B cat. diff.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 1300 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 860 m, average steepness of the wall part — 77°.
- Pitons hammered: rock for belay — 115, for artificial holds — 31, bolt for belay — 4, for artificial holds — 1, chock stones — 127 + 17.
- Number of travel hours — 28 to the summit.
- Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:
2 bivouacs, comfortable, in tents:
- I-st — under the second rocky bastion,
- II-nd — on the western ridge on the descent path.
- Ascent made by a duo of instructors:
- Klestov V.I., CMS
- Goncharenko V.M., CMS
- Team coach — Kapitanov O.V., MS
- Date of departure on the route and date of return:
departure July 18, 1981, return July 20, 1981
Table of main characteristics of the first ascent route on Khodzha-Lokan peak via South-South-East buttress 5B cat. diff.
| Date | Section | Average steepness | Length | Terrain characteristics | Difficulty | Condition | Weather conditions | Rock | Bolt | Chock stones |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 18.07 – 6:00 | R0–R1 | 70° | 180 m | Inner corner, ridge, sheep's foreheads | 3–4 | Slightly destroyed | Cloudy, wind, temperature | 12 | - | 10 |
| R1–R2 | 60° | 60 m | Firn | 3 | Dense | temperature +3° | Through ice axe | 4+1 | ||
| R2–R3 | 90° | 30 m | Inner corner, chimney | 5–6 | Slightly destroyed | 5+1 | ||||
| R3–R4 | 90° | 30 m | Wall | 5–6 | Monolith | 4+1 | 1+1 | |||
| R4–R5 | 93° | 60 m | Wall with cornices | 6 | Monolith, absolutely smooth | 10+7 | 1+1 | 8+3 | ||
| R5–R6 | 90° | 50 m | Wall, inner corner | 6 | Smooth monolith | 8+1 | 7 | |||
| R6–R7 | 90° | 55 m | Cornice (overhang 95°), slabs | 6–5 | Slightly destroyed | 8+1 | - | 5+1 | ||
| R7–R8 | 85° | 40 m | Shelf, chimney, smooth slab, wall | 5–6 | Monolith | 5 | 4 | |||
| R8–R9 | 70° | 50 m | Shelf, walls | 3–4 | Slightly destroyed | 3 | 4 |
Travel hours — 15
Stop for the night at 21:00. Bivouac conditions — comfortable shelf, night in a tent. Departure on the route on July 19 at 8:00.
Continuation of the table
| Date | Section | Average steepness | Length | Terrain characteristics | Difficulty | Condition | Weather conditions | Rock | Bolt | Chock stones |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| R9–R10 | 80° | 55 m | Wall | 5 | Monolith | 2 | 8 | |||
| R10–R11 | 60° | 50 m | Chimney, wall, ridge | 4–3 | Slightly destroyed | 1 | 9 | |||
| 19.07 | R11–R12 | 70° | 80 m | Shelf, inner corner | 3–4 | Slightly destroyed | Fog, cloudy | 3 | - | - |
| R12–R13 | 75° | 130 m | Ridge, walls with shelves, slab | 5 | Sheep's foreheads with ice crust | visibility limited | 14 | 11 | ||
| R13–R14 | 70° | 140 m | Ridge | 4 | Snow-covered | 1 | 8 | |||
| R14–R15 | 65° | 60 m | Firn | 4 | Dense, with ice | Through ice axe | ||||
| R15–R16 | 80° | 120 m | Wall | 5 | Monolith | 7+1 | 12 | |||
| R16–R17 | 95° | 50 m | Overhanging inner corner | 6 | Monolith | 6+6 | 8+6 | |||
| R17–R18 | 95° | 60 m | Wall with a cleft, cornice, slab | 6 | Monolith | 11+5 | 3 | 9+4 |
Continuation of the table
| Date | Section | Average steepness | Length | Terrain characteristics | Difficulty | Condition | Weather conditions | Rock | Bolt | Chock stones |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| R18–R19 | 90° | 60 m | Wall, inner corner, slab | 5–6 | Monolith | 8+1 | - | 7 | ||
| R19–R20 | 80° | 120 m | Ridge with walls | 5 | Slightly destroyed | 7 | - | 12 | ||
| R20–R21 | 50° | 400 m | Ridge, snowy slope | 4–3 | Through ice axe and ledges |
Stop for the night on the western ridge at 21:00. Bivouac good, in a tent. Water available. Travel hours on the second day — 13 hours.
Explanation
to the table of main characteristics of the route on Khodzha-Lokan peak via South-South-East buttress.
Section R0–R1. Cross the gully by an inner corner and a ridge towards the "sheep's foreheads". Up the sheep's foreheads, then along the smoothed slabs. Approach the left side of the gully formed by a waterfall via a wall. 10 m above the bend via a sheer wall. Section R1–R2. Cross the slope to the right upwards towards the inner corner in the center of the wall of the SSE buttress base via a steep firn slope. Belay through an ice axe. Section R2–R3. 5 m up the inner corner, then into a chimney with a small cornice, which is overcome on the right. Then left-upwards along the wall. Section R3–R4. Along smooth convex walls on friction traverse left 20 m. Very difficult! To a small horizontal shelf where it is convenient to belay. In the left part of the shelf, up the wall, leading to the inner corner under the cornice. Section R4–R5. The cornice is passed using ladders. Then along a smooth slab on friction. Exit to the next cornice using a bolt. The cornice is overcome by free climbing (extremely difficult!). Then along the wall 10 m to the next cornice, which is overcome with an artificial hold. Section R5–R6. 25 m to the inner inclined corner with a grotto. Difficult! 2 m to the right and up the slab to the right to a shelf. Then along the cleft 10–12 m to the cornice. Section R6–R7. The cornice is passed using artificial holds. Then along destroyed rocks (stones!) under powerful cornices 20 m. Then to the right along an inclined slab and a sheer wall to a small shelf with a cairn of the first ascenders. Section R7–R8. From the shelf to the right into a deep chimney. 20 m along it under the cornice, which is circumvented on the right along a slab with an exit to a shelf. Control cairn. Section R8–R9. Along the shelf left to a small ridge. Then along the wall 20 m to a vaguely expressed inner corner. Section R9–R10. Movement up along a smooth monolith wall. Difficult climbing. Section R10–R11. Along the wall towards the chimney, and then to the ridge. The ridge becomes gentler and narrower, leading to a gendarme, behind which is an exit to a wide horizontal shelf encircling the bastion of the SSE buttress. On the shelf — a comfortable bivouac. Section R11–R12. Along the shelf to the right towards a wide couloir. Then 20 m up the inner corner. Section R12–R13. 40 m along the wall and ridge with a relief like "sheep's foreheads". Then along the walls and smooth slab towards the bend of the ridge. Section R13–R14. 140 m along the ridge passing left of a steep firn slope. Convenient belay for ledges. Section R14–R15. Cross a steep firn slope. Belay through an ice axe. Ascend to the wall and exit to a site before the "pillar". Section R15–R16. Movement along the wall starts from a jumper. Along a vaguely expressed chimney, then along the wall. Difficult climbing, belay in a hanging position. Section R16–R17. Along the inner corner through a cornice using artificial holds. Exit to a site like a balcony. Control cairn. Section R17–R18. Along the cleft under the cornice, which is overcome with artificial holds. Bolt. Traverse right 10 m to an inclined cleft leading under the cornice, behind which is a niche. Section R18–R19. The inner corner leads under the cornice, which is circumvented along the wall. Very difficult. Section R19–R20. 80 m along the ridge of the "pillar" to the wall, which is circumvented on the right. Then to a jumper before the ascent. Walls are overcome by free climbing. Exit to the bend on a snowy slope along the ridge. Section R20–R21. Along the snowy slope exit to the eastern ridge and along it — to the summit. Descent along the western ridge 4A cat. diff.