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Ascent to the peak Hyrс from Vorobьиный Pass – Cat. 3A

The ascent to the summit is done from the "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac located below the peak Bivaчная. From the camp, one should go up along the stream flowing from the cirque of the peaks Khamsai, Ular, Hyrс, and Kulay Dzhovanon, to the old lateral moraine of the Ular glacier. From the moraine, ascend the snowfield (25–30°) to the Ular glacier plateau, from which exit to Vorobьиный Pass.

Hyrс is a strongly serrated ridge with large differences in altitude. It is composed mainly of gray granites. The main summit is located in the middle, towering above the others. The ridge is sharp with sheer walls, stretched in the meridional direction.

The ascent to the ridge begins from Vorobьиный Pass along the eastern snowy slope (25–30°) of the spur extending from the main ridge to the pass. It is better to enter the spur from the pass slightly to the left. From the snowy slope, exit onto the rocky spur (good holds, 25–30°) and ascend directly upwards for 120 m to the ridge with a snowy cornice overhanging to the west. Belaying is done through ledges.

Further movement occurs along the ridge to the left towards the south. After passing the cornice, go left of the ridge, first on snow for 60 m, then ascend a 6 m high rock wall. Here, piton belaying is organized. From here, go 20 m on snow, and then on rocks with a gradient of 30–35° with good ledges and holds to exit below a 5 m long snowy cornice hanging from the ridge to the left (east) with a small overhang. The cornice is bypassed on the left under overhanging icicles. Belaying is done through ledges.

Further, go on snow with alternate belaying (steep, wet snow — 180 m) to a gendarme with a flat top. The gendarme is ascended head-on. Belaying is done through ledges. After the gendarme, exit onto a snowy col, leaving a small sharp gendarme to the right.

Beyond the snowy col begins the main, most difficult section of the route — the ascent to the main summit. The col is very narrow and short: to the left, a steep snowy couloir drops down, and to the right are sheer walls.

This section is a wall with sheer 5–6 m high steps. Characteristics of the passage:

• Holds are small, few, and smoothed
• Difficult climbing
• Piton belaying
• Little space under the wall on the col for organizing belaying

Special warnings:

• Go carefully — rockfall hazard!
• The second team should follow after the first has moved on, as there is no place to take cover from falling rocks

The length of the steep section is 120 m.

After the steep section, the route goes along the ridge with large rocks (60 m), then left along a ledge with smoothed edges (many small rocks). Proceed with caution — loose rocks!

Beyond the ledge is a platform located slightly lower, which is a challenging transition to reach. The whole group can assemble on this platform.

From the platform:

• Traverse 5–6 m forward, left of the ridge on черепицеобразным rocks;
• Then go directly upwards (20–25 m, 30–35°) to exit onto the ridge.

Further, ascend on snow to the main summit of the Hyrс ridge.

Descend from the main summit to the south along the ridge with alternate belaying through ledges for 100 m.

A gendarme composed of large granite prisms is ascended head-on. Belaying is done through ledges. From the col, go right and upwards, bypassing rocks onto a snow-covered ridge with a cornice to the west.

Enumeration:

• Descent along the ridge for 100 m with alternate belaying
• Gendarme composed of large granite prisms
• Belaying through ledges
• Movement from the col right and upwards
• Bypassing rocks
• Exit onto a snow-covered ridge with a cornice to the west

Further along the ridge, go simultaneously until a steep step. Here, organize a 30 m rope descent. A small gendarme before the next col is bypassed on the left.

Enumeration:

• Movement along the ridge simultaneously
• 30 m rope descent
• Bypassing a small gendarme on the left before the col

Then, move along the ridge to the last step of the ridge to the col under the peak Kulay Dzhovanon. Descend from the last step by rope for 20 m.

From the col, descend rightwards on snow onto the Kulay Dzhovanon glacier and further down the glacier, then along the stream to "Zelyonaya Polyana".

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants — 6 people
2. Initial bivouac — "Zelyonaya Polyana"
3. Departure time — not later than 6:00
4. Equipment for a group of 6 people: rock pitons — 8 pcs., ice pitons — 2 pcs., hammers — 2 pcs., carabiners — 8 pcs., expendable cordelette — 10 m, main ropes — 3 × 40 m

Time calculation

"Zelyonaya Polyana" — Vorobьиный Pass

• 2–2.5 hours

Traverse of Hyrс ridge from Vorobьиный Pass to the col under Kulay Dzhovanon

• 9:00

Descent from the col to "Zelyonaya Polyana" — 2 hours.

The route to the peak Hyrс from Vorobьиный Pass was climbed on June 7, 1969, by a group consisting of:

• 1. Getman I.S. — CMS — leader
• 2. Rizaev L. — CMS — participant
• 3. Shatkovsky A. — Pr — "
• 4. Tairov R. — Pr — "
• 5. Galaktionov V. — Pr — "
• 6. Nikitina I. — Pr — "

The group assesses the route as category 3A.

Description compiled by: Shatkovsky, Tairov.

Hyrс from the West.