Chayka Peak from the South

Description of the ascent via the route category 3B

I. Approaches

The approaches are similar to those to the peaks Kuba, Grimaou, and Yastreb.

II. Ascent

From the fork in the upper valley, the path goes left (in the direction of travel) and leads to the eastern ridge. The peak descends here with a wide rocky-snowy massif, featuring a 70-meter wall in its lower part. This wall is ascended directly from the ridge with piton belays (4 pitons). The rocks are of medium difficulty.

The ascent continues on the right (in the direction of travel) side of the massif over easy to medium-difficulty rocks, leading to the ridge of the peak. The summit is not clearly defined; it is one of the highest craggy peaks on the ridge.

The path then follows the ridge for 5×60 m. The rocks are of medium difficulty, with belays using rock features and occasional pitons (4 pitons).

The descent to the saddle between Chayka and Yastreb is via one of the gullies, with rope installations (3×40 m).

The further descent into the valley is over steep scree.

The total duration from the camp is 10 hours.

The first ascent was made by a group led by Kryukov V. in 1964.