Shirokaya from the East

Description of the ascent via the 3B category difficulty route.

I. Approaches

The approaches are similar to those for all the peaks of the Tajik Igizaks.

II. Ascent

The ascent begins from the col between Shirokaya and Malyshka peaks. The journey from the camp on the Sioma River to the col takes 2.5–3 hours.

The ascent to the ridge is via a wide crevice, not visible from the col, but discernible to the right of it:

– From the col, straight and to the right (1×60 m) along moderately difficult rocks (4 pitons). We enter the crevice and proceed along easy rocks (2×60 m) with protection via protrusions to its upper part. – Up the wall to the left (1×30 m) along moderately difficult rocks (2 pitons) to reach the start of the ridge route. – The ridge is traversed with protection via protrusions. – Before reaching a characteristic needle-like gendarme, we deviate left and traverse the wall (1×40 m) along moderately difficult rocks with protection via protrusions. It's impossible to go wrong as the ridge path is impassable. Along easy rocks (3×60 m), we rejoin the ridge and continue (3×60 m) to the summit.

Descent is via the ascent route. The ascent from col to col takes 6–7 hours.

First ascent made by a group comprising: Tkachyov V.K., 1st category Solovyova T.N., 2nd category Shramko A.I., 2nd category Tkachenko V., 3rd category