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Ascent to Shlem Peak (from the west), 4A cat. diff.
The ascent to the summit is made from the base camp located in the upper reaches of the Siam River. From the camp, you should follow the left bank of Siamy, initially along the moraines with a sharp gain in height, and then, turning to the right, enter the circus of the B. Siamy glacier. The further path goes to the ridge connecting the peaks Shlem and Medvezhiy Zamok.
The ascent to the saddle (the lowest point of the ridge) is carried out along the talus and snow. There is a control cairn on the saddle. From the saddle, go along the talus on the right to a poorly defined ridge and along the slabs to a wall 4 m high and 10–12 m wide. The wall is overcome in its right part. The belay is hooked, climbing is difficult.
Above the wall is a ledge, along which you can move to its end to the left under the next wall 2 m high. After overcoming the last one, cross the couloir along the ledge and reach the inclined slabs of the ridge.
Move along the ridge with alternate belay for about 100 m to the lowering in the ridge. Descend into the failure on a rope. Further movement along the left side of the ridge along the slabs. The belay is hooked. After 100–120 m, reach the saddle under the wall of the summit.
The height of the wall is about 100 m. The first 10 m of the wall from the saddle are passed vertically upwards. The rocks are difficult. It is recommended to move in rubber shoes. Then, along the ledges, go up to the left to the base of the cleft, along which the rest of the wall is overcome. At the top, the cleft ends with a wide (10–15 m) ledge with talus, where water flows on the left. On the entire wall, the belay is hooked.
From the ledge, go up to the right along a wide cleft (in the lower part of the chimney). The belay is hooked. The cleft leads to inclined slabs with talus of the summit dome. Along the slabs to the summit — 150 m.
The descent from the summit is made along the ascent route. When descending from the wall, re-rigs are organized with the rope being pulled out.
Recommendations for Climbers
- Number of participants — 4–5 people
- Initial bivouac — base camp on Siamy
- Departure time — 4 hours
- Equipment for a group of 4 people: rock pitons — 15 pcs., hammers — 2 pcs., carabiners — 15 pcs., expendable cord 10 m, main ropes 2×40 m.
Time Calculation
- Base camp on Siamy – saddle — 3.5 hrs.
- Ascent to the summit — 7 hrs.
- Descent from the summit to the moraine — 3 hrs.
- Return to the base camp — 1 hr.
- Total — 14.5 hours
The first ascent was made on August 22, 1958 by a group consisting of:
- Kisel V. V. leader
- Smirnov I. D.
- Kolenkina S. E.
- Mashkov V. S.
Compiled by: Conf layn- Submitted gr. to approve 4 cat. diff. bayon
Shlem Peak from the west.