8. Шлем from the south, route 4A category, fig. 4.

From the base camp (no later than 4 hours) up Siamese by moraines, and then, turning right, exit to the circus of the Bolshoy Siamy glacier. The further path goes to the ridge connecting the peaks Шлем and Медвежий Замок. Ascend to the saddle over scree and snow. Control tour. From the saddle over scree on the right, exit to an indistinct ridge and over slabs to a wall 4 m high and up to 12 m wide. The wall is overcome on its right part. Piton belay, climbing is difficult. Above the wall is a ledge, along which go to its end on the left under the next wall 2 m high. Behind the wall, cross the couloir along the ledge and exit onto inclined slabs of the ridge.

Fig. 4. Move along the ridge for about 100 m with alternating belay until the ridge dips. Descend into the dip on a rope. Further movement is on the left side of the ridge over slabs. After 100–120 m, exit to a saddle under the summit wall.

The wall is about 100 m high. The first 10 m of the wall from the saddle are climbed vertically upwards. The rock is difficult. Then move left and up along ledges to the base of a cleft, which is used to overcome the rest of the wall.

At the top, the cleft leads to a wide (10–15 m) ledge with scree. On the entire wall, the belay is piton.

From the ledge, move right and up a wide cleft (in the lower part, a chimney). The cleft leads to inclined slabs and scree of the summit dome.

Descend from the summit via the ascent route. On the wall, re-rope and pull out the rope. The ascent takes 12–14 hours.