Alay Mountains

Mountain range24,484.34 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Description of the ascent route along the eastern wall of the 4300 peak of the Alai Range with a difficulty level of 5B.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: rock
  2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Alai ridge
  3. Peak, its height and ascent route: p. 4300, via the center of the eastern wall via the route of V. Grishchenko (2nd place at the XXXI USSR Alpine Championship, rock class) with exit to p. 4450 m
  4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m average steepness: wall — 80°, overall — 65° length of sections: 2nd difficulty — 120 m, 3rd difficulty — 800 m, 4th difficulty — 80 m, 5th difficulty — 425 m, 6th difficulty — 130 m.
  6. Pitons driven: for belaying:
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Report by the Ural Military District team on the ascent of Peak 4300 m via the center of the East Face in the Pamir-Alay in 1980, the third traverse of the route.

Report

Ural Military District team's ascent to Peak 4300 m via the center of the Eastern wall (3rd ascent of the route by the team from alpinist camp “Elbrus” — 2nd place in the 1980 USSR Championship) Team composition:

  • Kharitonov A.P. — CMS — team leader
  • Zadvoryev Yu.V. — CMS
  • Povolotsky V.Yu. — CMS
  • Tarkhov E.V. — 1st sports category Team coach — Master of Sports Mikhailov A.A. Pamir-Alay
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Passport of the ascent to Pik XXII Olimpiady via the center of the East Face, characteristics of the route, technical difficulty, and details of the ascent by a team of instructors from the Shkhelda alpine camp in 1980.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent category — rock climbing
  2. Ascent area — Archа-Kanysh gorge (Pamir-Alay)
  3. Ascent route — Peak XXII Olympiad (4550 m) via the center of the Eastern wall
  4. Ascent characteristics: total altitude difference — 900 m, wall section difference — 450 m, average wall steepness — 85°, wall length — 510 m
  5. Pitons driven: rock — 130 pcs. (including for TAE — 11 pcs.), bolt — 15 pcs. (including for TAE — 9 pcs.), chocks — 107 pcs. (including for TAE — 15 pcs.)
  6. Time to reach the summit — 36.5 hours
  7. Time on the wall — 27 hours
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Ascent via the center of the Eastern wall of peak LII / XXII Olympic Games (4560 m, Tsamvr Apai ridge) Cat. 6B.

ASCENT DOCUMENT 235

  1. Ascent category: technical
  2. Ascent area: Pamir Alai mountain range
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: LPI / XXII Olympic Games / 4560 m via the Centre of the Eastern wall.
  4. Proposed category of complexity: 6B (2nd)
  5. Route characteristics: Route length — 1290 m Length of category 5 sections — 40 m Length of category 6 sections — 470 m
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Ascent description of the "Shkhelda" alpine camp team to the peak "4300" via the center of the eastern wall in 1980, difficulty category 5B.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
  2. Ascent area — Alay, northern spurs of the Alay ridge, 5.1.
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route — peak "4300", northern peak of XXII Olympiad, team route a/l "Shkhelda" through the center of the eastern wall.
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B (3rd sports category).
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 900 m, wall section height difference — 450 m, average steepness — 85° (wall section),
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Description of the ascent route to Peak 4300 via the right edge of the northern wall, difficulty category 5B, elevation gain 730 m.

Ascent Passport

  1. ASCENT CLASS ROCK
  2. ASCENT AREA, RANGE PAMIR-ALAI, ALAI RANGE
  3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE P. 4300 VIA THE RIGHT EDGE OF THE NORTH FACE
  4. EXPECTED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY 5B
  5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS:
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Report on the ascent to a 4430-meter peak via a challenging Category 5 route, featuring a detailed description of the terrain and tactics.

22 24 ASCENT REPORT

I. Ascent category: rock climbing 2. Ascent area: AUSB "Dugoba", Alai Range 3. Peak, its height, route taken: p. Dvuzubka, 4430 m, Western ridge of the Northern crest 4. Estimated category of difficulty: 5B 5. Route characteristics: rock climbing 6. Height difference: 800 m Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty: 260 m Length of sections with 6th category of difficulty: 25 m Average steepness: Western ridge — 65°, Northern crest — 15°

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Report on the ascent to the summit of Dvuzubka via "Sтолб" (The Column) and the western wall, made in 1969 by a group of climbers.

Climbing Report on v. Dvuzubka (4430 m)

via the "Pillar" and the western wall Team:

  • Yu. A. Logachev CMS
  • O. I. Shumilov CMS
  • V. N. Bocharov MS
  • A. A. Potekhin CMS
  • G. G. Andreev CMS
  • Yu. S. Emelyanenko CMS
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Description of the ascent route to the summit of Dugoba Shigou (4800 m) via the West Ridge, 4A grade, climbed in 1988.

Climbing Passport

  1. Climbing category: technical (combined)
  2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Kollektor Range, DUGOBA-SHIGOU river valley.
  3. Peak: DUGOBA-SHIGOU (4800 m), via the ice slab on the Western ridge, combined route.
  4. Category 4A difficulty.
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 650 m, length of Category IV sections 250 m, average steepness of the snow-ice part 45°.
  6. Pitons used on the route: rock 8 ice 23 chocks 5
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Climbing passport for the ascent to the summit of Dugova (4200 m) via the Eastern Edge, category 3A, in the Alay mountain range.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: rock 2. Ascent area: AUSB "Dugoba", Alai ridge 3. Peak, its height, route taken: p. Dugoba 4200 m, Eastern ridge 4. Proposed category of difficulty: 3A 5. Characteristics of the route: rock Elevation gain: 3700–4200 m (500 m) Length of sections with 5th and 6th category of difficulty: none Average steepness: 45–50° 6. Pitons hammered: rock 27, ice none, bolted none

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