Alay Mountains
Route Description: 2-й левый м-т В стены
Description of the ascent route along the eastern wall of the 4300 peak of the Alai Range with a difficulty level of 5B.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class: rock
- Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Alai ridge
- Peak, its height and ascent route: p. 4300, via the center of the eastern wall via the route of V. Grishchenko (2nd place at the XXXI USSR Alpine Championship, rock class) with exit to p. 4450 m
- Proposed difficulty category: 5B
- Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m average steepness: wall — 80°, overall — 65° length of sections: 2nd difficulty — 120 m, 3rd difficulty — 800 m, 4th difficulty — 80 m, 5th difficulty — 425 m, 6th difficulty — 130 m.
- Pitons driven: for belaying:
Route Description: 2-й левый м-т В стены
Report by the Ural Military District team on the ascent of Peak 4300 m via the center of the East Face in the Pamir-Alay in 1980, the third traverse of the route.
Report
Ural Military District team's ascent to Peak 4300 m via the center of the Eastern wall (3rd ascent of the route by the team from alpinist camp “Elbrus” — 2nd place in the 1980 USSR Championship) Team composition:
- Kharitonov A.P. — CMS — team leader
- Zadvoryev Yu.V. — CMS
- Povolotsky V.Yu. — CMS
- Tarkhov E.V. — 1st sports category Team coach — Master of Sports Mikhailov A.A. Pamir-Alay
Route Description: центру В стены
Passport of the ascent to Pik XXII Olimpiady via the center of the East Face, characteristics of the route, technical difficulty, and details of the ascent by a team of instructors from the Shkhelda alpine camp in 1980.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent category — rock climbing
- Ascent area — Archа-Kanysh gorge (Pamir-Alay)
- Ascent route — Peak XXII Olympiad (4550 m) via the center of the Eastern wall
- Ascent characteristics: total altitude difference — 900 m, wall section difference — 450 m, average wall steepness — 85°, wall length — 510 m
- Pitons driven: rock — 130 pcs. (including for TAE — 11 pcs.), bolt — 15 pcs. (including for TAE — 9 pcs.), chocks — 107 pcs. (including for TAE — 15 pcs.)
- Time to reach the summit — 36.5 hours
- Time on the wall — 27 hours
Route Description: центру В стены
Ascent via the center of the Eastern wall of peak LII / XXII Olympic Games (4560 m, Tsamvr Apai ridge) Cat. 6B.
ASCENT DOCUMENT 235
- Ascent category: technical
- Ascent area: Pamir Alai mountain range
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: LPI / XXII Olympic Games / 4560 m via the Centre of the Eastern wall.
- Proposed category of complexity: 6B (2nd)
- Route characteristics: Route length — 1290 m Length of category 5 sections — 40 m Length of category 6 sections — 470 m
Route Description: центру В стены
Ascent description of the "Shkhelda" alpine camp team to the peak "4300" via the center of the eastern wall in 1980, difficulty category 5B.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — rock climbing.
- Ascent area — Alay, northern spurs of the Alay ridge, 5.1.
- Peak, its height, ascent route — peak "4300", northern peak of XXII Olympiad, team route a/l "Shkhelda" through the center of the eastern wall.
- Proposed difficulty category — 5B (3rd sports category).
- Route characteristics: height difference — 900 m, wall section height difference — 450 m, average steepness — 85° (wall section),
Route Description: правой грани С стены
Description of the ascent route to Peak 4300 via the right edge of the northern wall, difficulty category 5B, elevation gain 730 m.
Ascent Passport
- ASCENT CLASS ROCK
- ASCENT AREA, RANGE PAMIR-ALAI, ALAI RANGE
- PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE P. 4300 VIA THE RIGHT EDGE OF THE NORTH FACE
- EXPECTED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY 5B
- ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS:
Route Description: 3 ребру С гребня
Report on the ascent to a 4430-meter peak via a challenging Category 5 route, featuring a detailed description of the terrain and tactics.
22 24 ASCENT REPORT
I. Ascent category: rock climbing 2. Ascent area: AUSB "Dugoba", Alai Range 3. Peak, its height, route taken: p. Dvuzubka, 4430 m, Western ridge of the Northern crest 4. Estimated category of difficulty: 5B 5. Route characteristics: rock climbing 6. Height difference: 800 m Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty: 260 m Length of sections with 6th category of difficulty: 25 m Average steepness: Western ridge — 65°, Northern crest — 15°
Route Description: столбу С гребня
Report on the ascent to the summit of Dvuzubka via "Sтолб" (The Column) and the western wall, made in 1969 by a group of climbers.
Climbing Report on v. Dvuzubka (4430 m)
via the "Pillar" and the western wall Team:
- Yu. A. Logachev CMS
- O. I. Shumilov CMS
- V. N. Bocharov MS
- A. A. Potekhin CMS
- G. G. Andreev CMS
- Yu. S. Emelyanenko CMS
Route Description: ледовой доске 3 гребня
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Dugoba Shigou (4800 m) via the West Ridge, 4A grade, climbed in 1988.
Climbing Passport
- Climbing category: technical (combined)
- Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Kollektor Range, DUGOBA-SHIGOU river valley.
- Peak: DUGOBA-SHIGOU (4800 m), via the ice slab on the Western ridge, combined route.
- Category 4A difficulty.
- Route characteristics: elevation gain 650 m, length of Category IV sections 250 m, average steepness of the snow-ice part 45°.
- Pitons used on the route: rock 8 ice 23 chocks 5
Route Description: В ребру
Climbing passport for the ascent to the summit of Dugova (4200 m) via the Eastern Edge, category 3A, in the Alay mountain range.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent class: rock 2. Ascent area: AUSB "Dugoba", Alai ridge 3. Peak, its height, route taken: p. Dugoba 4200 m, Eastern ridge 4. Proposed category of difficulty: 3A 5. Characteristics of the route: rock Elevation gain: 3700–4200 m (500 m) Length of sections with 5th and 6th category of difficulty: none Average steepness: 45–50° 6. Pitons hammered: rock 27, ice none, bolted none