22 24 ASCENT REPORT
I. Ascent category: rock climbing 2. Ascent area: AUSB "Dugoba", Alai Range 3. Peak, its height, route taken: p. Dvuzubka, 4430 m, Western ridge of the Northern crest 4. Estimated category of difficulty: 5B 5. Route characteristics: rock climbing 6. Height difference: 800 m Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty: 260 m Length of sections with 6th category of difficulty: 25 m Average steepness: Western ridge — 65°, Northern crest — 15° 7. Pitons driven: rock — 118, ice — none, bolted — none. Number of placed protection — 62. 8. Number of climbing hours: 16 9. Number of nights spent: none 10. Full name of the leader and participants, qualification: Kislyakov Viktor Evgenievich — CMS, leader; Kulagin Alexander Alexeevich — CMS; Yadryshnikov Sergey Dmitrievich — CMS; Maksimenko Tatyana Alexandrovna — 1st sports rank. 11. Team coach: Bocharov Vladimir Nikolayevich, Master of Sports of the USSR
II. Date of departure: July 13, 1988 Date of return: July 13, 1988
- Ascent organized by: AUSB "Dugoba"
Date July 13, 1988. Time of departure: 6:00
TABLE OF MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT ROUTE Date July 13, 1988. Time of departure: 6:00
| Sections | Average steepness | Length (m) | Terrain characteristics | Difficulty | Condition | Weather conditions | Rock pitons | Ice pitons | Bolted pitons | Protection elements |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| R0–R1 | 45 | 100 | talus | 2- | dense, cemented talus | clear | - | - | - | - |
| R1–R2 | 50 | 20 | inside corner | 4- | smoothed rocks | clear | 3 | - | - | 1 |
| R2–R3 | 85 | 50 | wall and inside corner | 5+ | broken rocks (large blocks) | clear | 10 | - | - | 5 |
| R3–R4 | 75 | 40 | inside corner | 4 | broken rocks | clear | 4 | - | - | 2 |
| R4–R5 | 80 | 20 | wall | 5- | -"- | clear | 4 | - | - | 1 |
| R5–R6 | 60 | 60 | shelves-walls | 4 | heavily broken rocks | clear | 9 | - | - | 3 |
| R6–R7 | 80 | 40 | wall | 4+ | -"- | clear | 9 | - | - | 5 |
| R7–R8 | 85 | 10 | inside corner-wall | 5+ | broken rocks | clear | 4 | - | - | 1 |
| R8–R9 | 55 | 30 | wall | 4- | heavily broken rocks | clear | 2 | - | - | 4 |
| R9–R10 | 40 | 20 | shelves | 3 | -"- | clear | - | - | - | 2 |
| R10–R11 | 65 | 10 | wall | 4+ | -"- | clear | 5 | - | - | 2 |
| R11–R12 | 40 | 55 | crest | 3+ | -"- | cloudy | - | - | - | 3 |
| R12–R13 | 90 | 10 | wall | 6 | monolith | cloudy | 4 | - | - | 4 |
| R13–R14 | 40 | 40 | crest | 3+ | heavily broken rocks | cloudy | - | - | - | 7 |
| R14–R15 | 75 | 40 | wall | 5 | broken rocks | cloudy | 7 | - | - | 3 |
| R15–R16 | 50 | 80 | inside corner, chimney, wall | 4 | flowstone, broken rocks | cloudy | 10 | - | - | 6 |
| R16–R17 | 60 | 30 | wall | 4+ | -"- | cloudy | 6 | - | - | - |
| R17–R18 | 90 | 15 | wall | 6 | monolith | cloudy | 7 | - | - | 4 |
| R18–R19 | 70 | 30 | slab | 4+ | monolith | cloudy | 7 | - | - | 2 |
| R19–R20 | 70 | 40 | wall | 5- | flowstone, broken rocks | cloudy | 6 | - | - | - |
| R20–R21 | 80 | 40 | wall | 5 | heavily broken rocks | cloudy | 9 | - | - | - |
| R21–R22 | 70 | 40 | inside corner | 5 | -"- | cloudy | 12 | - | - | 2 |
| Exit to the Northern crest | ||||||||||
| R22–R23 | - | 200 | crest | 2- | -"- | cloudy, precipitation | - | - | - | - |
| R23–R24 | 50 | 80 | inside corner | 3+ | -"- | cloudy, precipitation | - | - | - | 5 |
Lower part of the route R1–R10
