ASCENT DOCUMENT 235
- Ascent category: technical
- Ascent area: Pamir Alai mountain range
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: LPI / XXII Olympic Games / 4560 m via the Centre of the Eastern wall.
- Proposed category of complexity: 6B (2nd)
- Route characteristics: Route length — 1290 m Length of category 5 sections — 40 m Length of category 6 sections — 470 m Average steepness — 72.1°
- Pitons hammered for protection:
- Rock — 55
- Nut — 75
- Bolt — 1 For creating I.T.O.:
- Rock — 4
- Nut — 31
- Bolt — 2
- Number of climbing hours: 24.5 hours
- Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: First bivouac — sitting on small ledges
- Full name of the leader, participants, and their qualification: SENTSOV Sergey Konstantinovich, Candidate Master of Sports — leader VASILENKO Gennadiy Ivanovich, Candidate Master of Sports — participant CHERNYAEV Yuriy Alekseyevich, Candidate Master of Sports — participant BELINSKIY Stanislav Fedorovich, Candidate Master of Sports — participant BERESNEV Valeriy Prokhorovich, Candidate Master of Sports — participant KLATAEVSKIY Vitaliy Ivanovich, Master of Sports of the USSR — participant
- Team coach: BERESNEV Valeriy Prokhorovich, Candidate Master of Sports
- Date of departure and ascent: August 2, 1980 — departure date; August 3, 1980 — return date.
TABLE OF MAIN ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS
| Date | Designation | Average steepness in degrees | Length in meters | Character of section | Difficulty | Condition | Weather conditions | Rock (fixed) | Nut (fixed) | Bolt (fixed) | Rock (passed) | Nut (passed) | Bolt (passed) | Time of departure, stop for bivouac, number of climbing hours |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2.08.80 | 0-1 | 60 | 60 | Wall | 4 | monolith | good | 4 | 10 | — | 5 | — | — | 7:00 on route |
| 1-2 | 70 | 100 | Wall with internal angle | 6 | — | — | 10 | 10 | — | 10 | 5 | — | on route | |
| 2-3 | 80 | 60 | Wall with internal angle | 6 | — | — | — | 5 | — | 5 | — | — | on route | |
| 3-4 | 100 | 40 | Internal angle with cornice | 6 | — | — | 7 | 3 | 1 | 2 | 2 | — | on route | |
| 4-5 | 90 | 120 | Overhanging internal angles | 6 | — | — | 15 | 23 | — | 3 | 9 | — | on route | |
| 5-6 | 90 | 15 | Pendulum | 6 | — | — | 1 | 2 | — | — | — | — | on route | |
| 6-7 | 90 | 30 | Wall with inclined hanging goal | 6 | — | — | 3 | 4 | — | 1 | 5 | — | Stop for overnight stay at 20:30, 13.5 climbing hours. Bivouac sitting. | |
| 3.08.80 | 7-8 | 90 | 35 | Wall | 6 | — | — | 3 | 8 | — | — | — | — | Departure on route at 8:00 |
| 8-9 | 90 | 70 | Wall with internal angle | 6 | — | — | 7 | 7 | — | 10 | — | — | on route | |
| 9-10 | 80 | 40 | 1 rib monolith | 3 | — | — | — | — | — | — | — | — | on route | |
| 10-11 | 35 | 80 | 1 rib monolith | 3 | — | — | — | — | — | — | — | — | on route | |
| 11-12 | 60 | 60 | Wall couloir | 3 | — | — | — | — | — | — | — | — | Protrusions, simultaneous movement. On route. | |
| 12-13 | 35 | 500 | Ridge | 5 | — | — | — | — | — | — | — | — | Protrusions, simultaneous movement. On route. | |
| 13-14 | 40 | 80 | Couloir | 3 | — | — | — | — | — | — | — | — | Simultaneous belay through protrusions. On route. Reached the summit at 19:00. Climbing hours — 11 hours. |
Ascent leader S.K. Sentsov
BRIEF EXPLANATION OF THE TABLE OF MAIN ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS
0-1. Wall, monolithic slabs, cracks for pitons available. 1-2. Wall with a pronounced internal angle, places for protection with rock and nut pitons. 2-3. Begins with a small ledge where 4 people can gather, moving up towards a large cornice along a weakly expressed internal angle. 3-4. Large internal angle ends with a 6-meter cornice. Passage of the cornice on I.T.O. At the beginning of the internal angle — control tower. 4-5. From a small ledge, vertical cracks at 90° and internal angles. 40 m from the ledge, a bolt piton is hammered — a place for protection and reception. Climbing is very difficult. 5-6. Pendulum to the right to exit onto vertical cracks 15–20 m. 6-7. Wall with an inclined crack, steep but reliable from a protection point of view, places for piton placement available. Exit onto small ledges, arranged one below the other in steps. Bivouac site — sitting. 7-8. Wall with internal angle, vertical, climbing very difficult, rocks are coarse-grained. For protection, use small nuts — stoppers. 8-9. Wall with a deep vertical chimney, protection through nuts. Large-sized nuts fit well. 9-10. Chimney leading to the ridge, climbing difficult. Limited number of handholds, use tiny holds. Protection through nuts. 10-11. Ridge, simultaneous movement, protection through protrusions, 15-meter sports descent onto a snowfield. 11-12. Ascent from the snowfield along the left wall of the couloir, or straight up the couloir if there's snow. Piton protection. 12-13. Movement along the left side of the ridge, gaining height. Can move simultaneously, protection through protrusions. Approach to the summit tower. 13-14. Exit onto the summit tower, simultaneous movement. Protection through protrusions.
Ascent leader S.K. Sentsov
General view photo with the path and section numbers as per the table.
Fragment of section 1–2.
