Ascent Passport
(4200 Peak via Western Wall edge, category 5A difficulty (tentative))
- Type of ascent — rock climbing.
- Ascent area — Alay mountain range.
- Peak 4200, Western wall edge.
- Proposed difficulty category — 5A (third ascent).
- Route description Elevation gain: 600 m; length of sections 5–6 — 250 m; average steepness — 70°.
- Pitons used: for belaying — 75 for creating artificial holds — 2.
- Total climbing hours — 15, including 12 on the wall.
- Number of overnight stays — 1. Overnight stay is comfortable and safe (100–150 m to the snow on sections 2).
- Participants: Kudakaev T.Z. — 1st sports category Bardash V.P. — 1st sports category.
- Team coaches: Tselovakhin V.V. Popova I.A.
- Departure date — August 7, 1981.
Return date — August 8, 1981.
Table of main characteristics of the ascent route to Peak 4200 via Western Wall edge, category 5A (tentative)
| Date | Designation | Average steepness, ° | Length, m | Terrain characteristics | Difficulty | Condition | Weather conditions | Rock | Ice | Slush |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 |
| 7.08.81. | R0–R1 | 70 | 70 | crevice | 4–5 | monolith | good | 15 | — | — |
| R1–R2 | 90–95 | 10 | wall | 6 | monolith | — | 5/2 | — | — | |
| R2–R3 | 70–75 | 40 | internal corner | 4–5 | monolith | — | 6 | — | — | |
| R3–R4 | 60 | 100 | large steps, internal corners | 3 | deteriorated | — | 3, ledge | — | — | |
| R4–R5 | 70 | 20 | internal corner | 5 | monolith | — | 5 | — | — | |
| R5–R6 | 60 | 40 | steep, smooth rocks | 5 | monolith | — | 7 | — | — | |
| R6–R7 | 60 | 50 | internal corner | 5 | monolith, sometimes large blocks | — | 8 | — | — | |
| R7–R8 | 60 | 60 | internal corner, wide rock gully | 5 | monolith, sometimes deteriorated | — | 10 | — | — | |
| R8–R9 | 50 | 40 | walls, ledges | 4 | monolith | — | 5 | — | — | |
| R9–R10 | 50 | 40 | walls, ledges | 4 | monolith | — | 5 | — | — | |
| R10–R11 | 60–70 | 40 | internal corner with crevice | 4 | monolith, large blocks | — | 5 | 4 | — |
Departure time: 9:00, arrival at bivouac — 21:00; climbing hours — 10, overnight stay on the ridge, good, snow is present on section R10–R11, or 150 m below on the ridge (category 1 difficulty).
| 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 8.08.81. | R11–R12 | 20–30 | 150 | ridge | 2 | monolith | good | ledges, | — |
| R12–R13 | 20–30 | 200 | ridge | 2, 1 | deteriorated | — | — | — | |
| R13–R12 | —" | —" | —" | —" | —" | — | — | — |
Descent via section R12–R13, then Southwest down the right (rocky) part of the couloir, about 500 m. Descent is objectively hazardous in the second half of the day (after R10–R3 slopes are exposed to sun): rockfall from the left (in the direction of travel) wall.
Excerpt from the debriefing protocol of the ascent to Peak 4200 ("Little Prince", third ascent) by a duo of climbers from "Alay" alpine camp, consisting of Kudakaev T.Z. — 1st sports category, Bardash V.P. — 1st sports category.
Attendees: Head of the training department of "Alay" alpine camp Kavunenko V.D., senior coach of "Burevestnik" sports society at "Alay" alpine camp Popova I.A., training participants.
Kudakaev T.Z. — the route corresponds to category 5A difficulty. The terrain is rocky. The description is accurate. The length of sections 5–6 is correctly indicated, the total route length is 14–15 rope lengths. About 70 rock pitons were used, including 2 for creating artificial holds. Key sections (third, seventh, and eighth rope lengths) were climbed in galoshes. Movement on all sections, except for the ridge part, was alternating. Started at 9:00, reached the ridge and the overnight stay location by 21:00. The overnight stay was comfortable, water was available on the ridge and on R13–R14 rope lengths. The descent couloir is objectively prone to rockfall. Rockfalls were observed at different times of the day. Before descending, it is necessary to study the rockfall pattern. During the descent, it is necessary to stay on the right (less exposed) part of the couloir. Descent through the couloir takes one and a half to two hours. The route was enjoyable. It is logical, beautiful, and safe. There are no complaints against the team leader. No safety violations occurred.
Bardash V.P. — Agrees with Kudakaev's characterization of the route. The route corresponds to category 5A difficulty, is beautiful and logical. The ascent was enjoyable, there are no complaints against the team leader, and no safety violations occurred on the route.
Popova I.A. — The ascent is confirmed. The participants are required to document the third ascent of the route for its classification by August 17, 1981.
The protocol was recorded by Kuzaeva O.B.