89. Traverse of Kukryniksy Severaya - Yuzhnaya The route is rocky, Category 1B complexity (Fig. 5, 87, 93, 94). Length - 2600 m, elevation gain - 630 m, time - 6-7 hours. The path from the Kirgizat alplager (group size not limited) to the Kukryniksy Severaya summit - see route 87. From the Severaya summit:

• descend 50-80 meters down the partly snow-covered talus on the right side of the South ridge to the col;
• then traverse 450-500 m along the talus with some easy broken rock on the right side of the long ridge to reach the Kukryniksy Glavnaya summit (30-40 minutes from Severaya). From the Glavnaya summit:
• descend down the partly snow-covered talus on the right side of the 100-120-meter South ridge to the col;
• traverse along the easy broken rock and talus of the 700-800-meter col to approach the North ridge of Kukryniksy Yuzhnaya;
• from the col, ascend the simple, possibly snow-covered, 150-200-meter rock of the North ridge to reach the Kukryniksy Yuzhnaya summit (1-1.5 hours from Glavnaya). Descend along the talus slope via Kievyanka pass.

28

30

1. Class — rock
2. Area — Kiçik-Alay ridge
3. Peak — Kukrniksov (4160 m) First ascent via the north wall of the eastern ridge (combined)
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3B
5. Height difference — 630 m Length of sections R0–R1 cat. diff. — NONE, average steepness — 43°
6. Hammered in pitons:

ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

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1. CATEGORY — rock climbing
2. REGION — KIChIK-ALAI ridge
3. PEAK — KUKRYNIKOSOV (S) (4160 m) first ascent via the north face of the eastern ridge (combined)
4. PROPOSED cat. diff. — 3B
5. Elevation gain — 630 m Length of sections with R0–R6 cat. diff. — NONE, average steepness — 43°
6. PITOONS DRIVEN:

5.15. 16 23

Ascent Log

Ascent type: rock Ascent area: Pamir-Alay range, Kichik-Alay ridge Peak: Karagoy Height: 4234 m Ascent route: from Suychikty valley via NE ridge Suggested difficulty category: 2A

Route Characteristics

65. Karagoy via the South Ridge The route is rocky, category 1B difficulty (fig. 5, 61, 62, 73). Length — 700 m, elevation gain — 300 m, time — 3.5–4 hours. The approach from the Kyrgyz-Ata alpine camp (group size is not limited) to the initial bivouac in the Djeljilga gorge, at the entrance to the lateral Ruchyeva cirque — see route 14. From the initial bivouac:

• Turn right and ascend via the right-bank moraine into the Ruchyeva cirque.
• Continue ascending via the right-bank moraine and, after passing the slopes of the LVO peak, approach the saddle of the Karagoy Pass.
• From the cirque — 250–300 m ascent to the right of the Eastern counterfort of the Northern ridge of the Big Ruchyeva peak with a triangular base, along a 30–35° slope composed of small and medium talus, transitioning into multiple couloirs in the central and upper parts.
• Ascend via the middle couloir to the Karagoy Pass. From the initial bivouac — 2–2.5 hours. The approach to the Karagoy Pass from the Suichikty gorge:
• From the alpine camp, ascend via the left-bank road of the Suichikty river to the kurgan, then to the ruined stone house of geologists.

Area of ascent, ridge: PAMIR-ALAI, KICHIK-ALAI ridge Peak: IRBIS peak Height: 4200 m Route: via SE ridge Category: rock climbing FIRST ASCENT Proposed: 1B category difficulty Technical part height difference - 230 m (visual estimate) Total length - 470 m (visual estimate) Sections of V-VI category difficulty - NONE

31. Jashtyk Uzlovaya via North-Eastern Ridge The route is combined, category III (fig. 5, 6, 40–42). Length — 400 m, ascent — 300 m, grade IV section - 20 m, time — 5–6 hours. The path from "Kyrgyzata" alpine camp (2 to 8 people in a group) to the initial bivouac by the lake below the North-West wall of Jyrty peak — see in route 23. From the initial bivouac, move up along the moraines to the right, into the gorge, and onto the East Kyrgyzata glacier. Follow the left side of the glacier (closed crevasses) to below the northern snow-ice slope descending from the eastern shoulder from below the summit tower of the North-Eastern ridge of Jashtyk-Uzlовая peak. About 1 hour from the initial bivouac. Here, turn left and, overcoming the bergschrund (pitons), ascend 300 m up the steep (40°) moderately difficult snow-ice slope (pitons), to the right of a long rocky outcrop, onto a snowy saddle (cornice), to the right of the Bashnya pinnacle. On the saddle, turn right and ascend 40 m up rocks of moderate and above moderate difficulty on the wall (pitons) of the North-Eastern ridge. Then move 50–60 m along 45° moderately difficult smooth slabs (belay). Further, ascend 60–80 m up the moderately difficult wall with short sections of above moderate difficulty, alternating with narrow inclined ledges (“live” rocks, pitons) and along 20–30-meter inclined block slabs of moderate difficulty (“live” rocks, belay) on the North-Eastern ridge to reach the summit of Jashtyk Uzlovaya. 6–8 hours from the initial bivouac.

32. Zhashtyk Uzlovaya via the Southwest Ridge The route is combined, category 2B (fig. 5, 6, 40–42). Length — 600 m, elevation gain — 300 m, time — 5–6 hours. The path from the Kyrgyz-Ata alpine camp (group of 4–12 people) to the initial bivouac by the lake below the Northwest wall of Jyrty peak — see route 23. From the initial bivouac, traverse the moraines right-up the gorge to reach the East Kyrgyz-Ata glacier and follow its left side (closed crevasses) to approach the left side of the Zhashtyk pass, to the left of its three gendarmes. Time from the initial bivouac is 1–1.5 hours. From the glacier, overcome the bergschrund (protection), and ascend 250–300 m up the steep snow-ice slope, to the right of a lone rocky outcrop, to the left side of the Zhashtyk pass col. On the col, turn left and follow the broad, gentle, scree-covered, snow-covered 120–150-meter Southwest ridge, passing two straightforward 10–20-meter rock steps, to approach the rock step of the summit. Initially, traverse the step with an 80–100-meter traverse with a slight ascent along simple rocks on the right side of the Southwest ridge (protection). Then ascend 100–120 m up a narrowing couloir (falling rocks, loose rocks, piton protection) to reach the summit Southwest ridge. Here, turn right and follow simple, steep, broken rocks (protection) of the 20–30-meter Southwest ridge to reach the summit of Zhashtyk Uzlovaya. Time from the start of the ascent to the Zhashtyk pass is 5–6 hours.

Gelintas 3900

View from NW ridge of p. Kupriyanova

Gelintas 3900

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