- Kurgan Glavnaya from the west via Central couloir. The route is combined, category of difficulty 2A (fig. 5, 6, 15, 16, 18). Length — 1200 m, ascent — 700 m, time — 2.5–3 hours.
The path from "Kirgizat" alpine camp (group of 2–4 people) to the initial bivouac on the moraine of Kurgan gorge under the Central couloir of Kurgan peak — see route 10. Departure from the initial bivouac at 3:00–4:00. Up the scree slope, then up the wide 35–40° scree Central couloir for 600–800 m (rockfall, protection). Further 300–350 m up the right branch of the couloir, from which exit left to a site above the long rocky Western spur — a bastion dividing the upper part of the Central couloir.
From the site, 120–150 m up and right along a 30–35° steep scree slope to the snowy shoulder of the Western ridge.
From the shoulder, left and 80–100 m up simple and moderately difficult 40–50° rocks of the Western ridge ("live" rocks, protection) to the summit of Kurgan Glavnaya. From the initial bivouac — 2.5–3 hours. The route is prone to rockfall!! img-0.jpeg
Fig. 18. Kurgan Glavnaya from the west