Ergaki
Description of the climbing route with illustrations and a map of the area, including key sections R3-R10.
Sections R3–R7
- R3
- R4
- R5
- R6
- R7
Section R5–R6
- R5
- R6
Route Description: Ю гребню
Description of the first ascent of the rock route of 3A category of difficulty to the peak Zvezdny (V) 2190 m in the Ergaki ridge, Western Sayan.
Ascent Passport
- Region — Ergaki Ridge, Western Sayan. 6.2
- Summit — Zvezdny Peak (V) 2190 m via South Ridge
- Proposed — Category 3A difficulty, first ascent
- Route type — Rock climbing
- Route characteristics: Elevation gain approximately 300 m, length approximately 1000 m
- Equipment used on the route: 19 protection pieces
- Total climbing hours — 5
- Overnight stays — none
Route Description: с пер. Пикантный
Climbing passport for Zvezdnyy Vostochnyy peak, complexity category 3B, with a detailed description of the route and approach.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — rock climbing.
- Ascent area: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
- Peak Zvezdny Vostochny 2100 m from Piquantny pass.
- Proposed category of difficulty — 3B.
- Height difference 110 m, route length 450 m, average slope 35°.
- 18 (0) fixed protection elements used on the route.
- Number of climbing hours — seven.
- No overnight stays on the route.
- Group composition:
Route Description: В стене
Description of the 4A category complexity route to Vostochny Zvezdny peak in the Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, with a detailed analysis of the sections and team tactics.
Passport
- Rock climbing route.
- Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
- Pik Vostochny Zvezdny, 2100 m. West wall.
- Proposed — 4A cat. dif., first ascent.
- Height difference: 250 m. length of sections with 4–5 cat. dif.: 50 m, average steepness of the route: 40°.
- Pitons hammered in: rock pitons: 4, chocks: 31.
- Total climbing hours: 15, days: 1.
Route Description: центру В стены
Description of a new 4A rock climbing route to Zvezdniy East peak in Ergaki ridge, Western Sayan, climbed in August 2012.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — rock climbing
- Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge
- Pik Vostochny Zvezdny, 2190 m via the center of the Eastern wall
- Proposed category — 4A first ascent
5. Route Characteristics
- Height difference — 280 m
- Total length — 345 m
- Length of sections: 5th cat. diff. – 40 m, 4th cat. diff. – 100 m, 3rd cat. diff. – 175 m, 2nd cat. diff. – 50 m
- Average steepness of the entire route — 60°
Route Description: 3 гребню
Ascent of Zakharov N. N. group to Zubatyi (Zub) Dragon peak (2050 m) in Ergaki mountain range along the ridge, category 2A, first ascent on February 13, 1997.
PASSPORT
- Rock class.
- Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
- Pik Zub Dragona, 2050 m, 3rd ridge.
- Proposed 2A category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Route characteristics: height difference 300 m, length 750 m, average slope 23°.
- Pitons driven: chocks 7, pitons 0.
- Climbing hours 4, days 1.
Route Description: Ю ребру
### Description of a Category 5 Climbing Route to Zub Dragona Peak (2021 m) via the Northwest Wall in Ergaki Details on the technical aspects and approach to the route.
PASSPORT
- Climbing category: rock climbing.
- Climbing area: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
- Peak: Zub Drakona (Dragon's Tooth), 2021 m, via the edge of the S wall.
- Proposed category: 5A, first ascent.
- Route characteristics: elevation gain: 400 m; route length: approximately 600 m; length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty: 200 m; average steepness: 56°;
Route Description: центру Ю стены Гл. башни
Description of the first ascent of a 6A category rock climbing route to Zub Dragona (2170 m) peak in Ergaki mountain range, Western Sayan.
Ascent Record
- Ascent category — rock climbing
- Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki Ridge
- Peak — Zub Drakona 2170 m via the center of the S wall of the main tower.
- Claimed — 6A first ascent
- Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m. total length — 600 m. length of 6th category sections — 220 m. 5th category sections — 150 m.
Route Description: ЮЗ стене Гл. Башни
Description of a 6A category complexity route to the top of Zub Dragona (2,170 m) in the Ergaki ridge, Western Sayan, climbed by Krasnoyarsk climbers in 1999.
Exit from the grotto, section #10-11, taken from overnight stay #2
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class: Rock climbing.
- Ascent area: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
- Peak, its height, ascent route: Zub Drakona, 2170 m, South-West wall of the main bastion
- Proposed category: 6A
- Route characteristics: Zub Drakona, 2170 m, South-West wall of the main bastion. Proposed category: 6A. Route characteristics:
Route Description: Центру Ю стены Гл. Башни
First ascent of the South Face of the Zub Drakona (2170 m) peak in the Western Sayan Mountains, category 6A, 615 m, 313 belays.
Ascent Record
- Climbing area — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
- Peak — Zub Drakona, 2170 m. Direttissima of the main tower, South wall.
- Claimed 6A category of difficulty, 1st ascent.
- Climbing class — rock.
- Height difference — 520 m. Total length 615 m. Length of sections with 6th category of difficulty 415 m, 5th category of difficulty 180 m. Average steepness of the route 80°. Main part 93°.
- Total of 13 pitons left on the route, including 13 Petzl bolts. Pitons used on the route: 13/9 fixed bolts, 220/180 chocks, 43/43 removable bolts, 44/44 skyhooks, 45/37 rock pitons.