6.2 Western Sayan Golova, 1970 m, 5A, via the center of the SW wall Prokofiev D.E. July 10, 2013

Ascent Record

1. Region — Sayan Mountains, Western Sayan
2. Peak — Golova, 1970 m, via the center of the SW wall. 5A.
3. Assumed — 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock
5. Route description: elevation gain — 350 m. route length — 445 m. length of 6th category sections — 100 m. length of 4th category sections — 345 m. average slope — 57°, main part 70°
6. Equipment left on the route: total 0

End of the R0–R1 section. Denis Prokofiev at the R1 station Start of the R1–R2 section Denis Prokofiev on the R2–R3 section Key sections of the route, R3–R5. Approach to the R3 station. Denis Prokofiev approaching the chimney, key section R4–R5, shot from the R4 station

6.2 Western Sayan Golova, 1970 m, 5A, via center of SW wall Prokofiev D.E. August 10, 2013

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Sayan Mountains, Western Sayan
2. Summit — Golova, 1970 m, via center of SW wall. 5A.
3. Proposed — 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 350 m. route length — 445 m. length of sections 6 cat. diff. — 100 m. length of sections 4 cat. diff. — 345 m. average steepness

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Golova Sayana (1970 m) via the left part of the NW wall, category 5A, by a team from Krasnoyarsk Krai, from May 25, 2018, to May 26, 2018.

I. Ascent Passport

Ascent Log

Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki Ridge, p. 6.2. Peak — Golova, 1970 m, direct route up the E wall, route name "Slesarnya". Category — 5B cat. sl., first ascent. Route type — rock climb. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m, total route length — 470 m, length of wall section — 320 m, length of sections with 6 cat. sl. — 225 m, 5 cat. sl. — 15 m,

PASSPORT

1. Rock class.
2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Peak Dinosaur, 2221 m, from pass Pikantny.
4. Proposed category 1B, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 421 m, length 1400 m, average slope 20°.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — rock
2. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Dinosaur Peak 2221 m via the left part of the NW wall.
4. Category — 5B first ascent. (2 ascents — Fedorov + 3 2001)
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 470 m total length — 560 m, length of sections with 6th category of difficulty — 260 m, 5th category of difficulty — 170 m. Average steepness: total route — 65°, main part: 75°
6. Equipment used on the route: | chocks | rock pitons | bolt pitons | skyhooks | | :----: | :---------: | :---------: | :-------: |

Ascent Passport.

1. Climbing area — Western Sayan, section according to the 1999 classification table No. 6.2
2. Name of the peak — Dinosaur, name of the route — via NW wall.
3. Proposed 6A cat. diff. 2nd ascent. 6A
4. Nature of the route — rock climbing.
5. Height difference of the route: 450 m (by altimeter) Length of sections:

• 5 cat. diff. — 60 m,
• 6 cat. diff. — 280 m. Average steepness:

PASSPORT

1. Rock class.
2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Zvezdny Peak, 2265 m, via W. ridge.
4. Proposed 3B cat. dif., first ascent.
5. Route characteristics:
   • Elevation gain 450 m
   • Length 1160 m
   • Length of sect. 5 cat. dif. 55 m, 75°
   • Average steepness 45°

REPORT

on the ascent (first ascent) of p. Zvezdniy via the right part of the South wall (proposed 5A(5B) category of difficulty) I suggest considering it as 5B for the group. Balezin V. V. Participants:

• Smaikina S.V.
• Kovaleva A.V.
• Coach Temerev I.M.

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Region: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, section number according to the 2008 classification table – 6.2