Ergaki

Mountain range3,901.41 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Description of a new Trad route, category 5A, to Zvezdny Peak, 2265 m, in the Western Sayan Mountains, climbed by the Zhigalov-Pachuev team in alpine style on August 12, 2016.

Ascent Passport

  1. Area — Western Sayan, Ergaki Ridge, p.6.2
  2. Peak — Zvezdny, 2265 m, via the right part of the 3rd wall, "Tred" route
  3. Claimed — 5A cat. diff. — first ascent
  4. Route type — rock climbing

5. Route Characteristics:

elevation gain — 315 m, total route length — 328 m, length of 6th cat. diff. sections — 170 m, 5th cat. diff. — 75 m, average steepness of the entire route — 65.4° 6. Equipment used on the route: anchor pitons — 41/35, 1 left behind, broken, on the mid-shelf, camalots — 51/32, about 35 IT0 on "fifas", about 9 IT0 on skyhooks, 1 IT0 on a bolt. 7. Total climbing hours — 8 h 45 min, days — 1. Descent 2 h via Lebedev's route, "Kant", 5A cat. diff. No overnight stays

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Route passport for Category III+ hike to Zvezdny Peak (2265 m) via the South-West Edge in the Ergaki massif, Western Sayan.

Passport

  1. Rock class.
  2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
  3. Zvezdny Peak, 2265 m via the South-West edge.
  4. Proposed — 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 315 m, length 340 m, length of section 5–6 category of difficulty 210 m.
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Climbing passport for Zvezdny Peak via the south wall chimney, 5A category of complexity route, 320 m elevation gain, 450 m length.

Ascent Passport

  1. Region: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, section number according to the 2001 classification table - 6.2
  2. Peak: Zvezdny 2265, via the chimney on the South face, 5A
  3. Route type: rock
  4. Route elevation gain: 320 (by altimeter) Route length: 450 m. Length of sections:
    • V difficulty category – 120 m.
    • VI difficulty category – 150 m. Average steepness:
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Description of the 5A category route to Zvezdny Peak (2265 m) in the Ergaki massif of the Western Sayan Mountains, first ascent in 1996.

PASSPORT

  1. Rock class.
  2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
  3. Peak Zvezdny, 2265 m via the South-West edge.
  4. Proposed — 5A cat. dif., first ascent.
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 315 m, length 340 m, length of section 5–6 cat. dif. 210 m,
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Description of the 6A category route to Zvezdny Peak in the Ergaki Ridge, Western Sayan, climbed via the southern wall in February 2001.

Climbing Passport

  1. Center of Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, 6.2.
  2. Zvezdny peak, via S wall center (via "Mirror")
  3. First ascent, 6A category of difficulty.
  4. The route is rocky.
  5. Elevation gain along the route according to altimeter — 350 m. Route length — 500 m. Length of sections:
  • V category of difficulty — 50 m
  • VI category of difficulty — 300 m. Average steepness:
  • main part — 84°
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First ascent of the western wall of Zvezdny peak (2265 m, Ergaki, Western Sayan) with a 6A difficulty grade, 590 m height difference, and 655 m length.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — rock
  2. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge
  3. Peak — Zvezdny 2265 m via the western wall, rock
  4. Proposed — 6A first ascent
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 590 m. total length — 655 m. length of sections with 5th difficulty grade — 180 m. length of sections with 6th difficulty grade — 250 m.
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Climbing passport for Zvezdny Peak via the left part of the West face in the Western Sayan Mountains, category 6A complexity level, rock climbing route.

ASCENT REPORT

  1. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
  2. Peak name: Zvezdny Peak, route name: via the left part of the West Face.
  3. Proposed category: 6A, variation.
  4. Route type: rock.
  5. Route height difference: 495 m (by altimeter). Route length: 539 m. Section length: 5th cat. diff.: 260 m, 6th cat. diff.: 239 m. Average steepness:
    • main part of the route: 83°
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Report on the ascent of the Krasnoyarsk Krai team to Peak Zvezdny via the 3rd wall, category complexity 5B.

Siberian Federal District and Far Eastern Federal District Championship in Alpinism

Technical and Altitude Class, 2024

REPORT

on the ascent to the summit of Pik Zvezdny 2265 m via the 3rd wall, category 5B, by a team from Krasnoyarsk Krai on July 29, 2024 2024

I. ASCENT PASSPORT

1. General Information
1.1Full Name, sports rank of the leaderTimofeev V. M. (MS)
1.2Full Name, sports rank of participantsBalezine V. V. (MSMK), Savelyev V. A. (MS)
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Report on the ascent made by a team from the Krasnoyarsk mountaineering club to the peak Zvezdny via the Bolezin Route on the western wall, rated as category 5B.

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Pik Zvezdny 2265 m via the western wall, Balezin's route, 5B category of complexity, by the team of the Krasnoyarsk Alpine Club on July 25, 2024.

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full Name, Sports Rank of the LeaderFedosenko Alexey Sergeevich — CMS
1.2Full Name, Sports Rank of ParticipantsTaskin Andrey Sergeevich — 1st sports rank
1.3Full Name of CoachGunko Vladimir Sergeevich
1.4OrganizationKrasnoyarsk Alpine Club
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Report on the ascent of Pik Zvezdny via the Balezina route on the western wall, category 5B.

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Pik Zvezdny 2265 m via the western wall, Balezin's route, 5B category of difficulty, by the team from the Republic of Khakassia on August 8, 2024.

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderIvanov Timofey Pavlovich, CMS
1.2Full name, sports rank of participantsZhigalov Alexander Vladimirovich, MS
1.3Full name of coachZhigalov Alexander Vladimirovich, MS
1.4OrganizationFederation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing of the Republic of Khakassia
2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object
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