Ascent Passport

1. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
2. Peak — Zub Drakona via the center of the SW wall of the central tower
3. Proposed — 6A category of difficulty, first ascent
4. Route character — rock climbing
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 460 m. Route length — 580 m. Section lengths:

• 6th category of difficulty — 340 m.
• 5th category of difficulty — 160 m. Average steepness of the lower part: 70°, upper part — 90°, entire route — 70°

ASCENT PASSPORT­­

1. Ascent class­­ — rock.
2. Ascent area­­ — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Zub drakona peak via South wall to the middle tower (first ascent).
4. Difficulty category­­ — 6
5. Route characteristics. a) Height difference­­ — 400 m; b) Length of sections with 6th category of difficulty­­ — 331 m; c) Average steepness of the wall­­ — 27
6. Pitons used. a) rock­­ — 40; b) chocks­­ — 150; c) bolt­­ — 0 (used from previously hammered­­ — 0)

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki Ridge.
2. Peak — Zуб Дракона (Dragon's Tooth) via the center of the southwest wall of the Western Tower.
3. Assumed — 6A category of difficulty. First ascent.
4. Route type — rock climbing.
5. Route characteristics:
   • elevation gain — 480 m;
   • route length — 560 m;
   • section lengths:
     • 6B category of difficulty — 200 m;

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Western Sayan, Ergaki mountain group.
3. Peak — Zub Dragona Severo-Zapadnaya (Dragon's Tooth Northwest), 2000 m. Via the south wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category 5B, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 500 m, length 590 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 500 m, average steepness — 70°.
6. 130/32 cams used on the route.
7. Total climbing time — 21 hours.
8. One overnight stay on a ledge under a cornice.

Climb leader and author of the description — Zaretsky Ivan Approach: Both routes start from Molodyozhny pass. You can ascend to the pass from the side of Mramorny lake. From the lake, a trail goes towards the pass, which leads to a scree slope. You will have to ascend via a talus field, bypassing the "sheep's foreheads". This path to the pass is:

• the shortest,
• not the easiest to ascend,
• not the safest to descend. From Mramorny lake, you can also reach Molodyozhny pass via Kursanov pass. From the lake, a trail leads to Kursanov East pass. Then, from the pass, the trail goes along the ridge towards Molodyozhny peak. From Kursanov West pass, the trail, going along the slope, leads to Molodyozhny pass. This path is longer, but it mostly follows an obvious trail.

1B to Uchiteley peak:

The route starts from Molodyozhny pass. From the pass, the route follows a trail that, bypassing the summit on the right, leads to the ridge. The highest point of the ridge is the summit. Descent is done via the same route.

1B to Molodyozhny peak

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical.
2. Region: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Peak: 2060 m, Molodezhny peak, left chimney of North wall.
4. Proposed: category 3B difficulty.
5. Route type: rock climbing.
6. Route characteristics: Elevation gain 300 m. Route length 480 m. Length of category 4 section 130 m.

1. Mt. Orel 1915 m, center of North wall, 2004 (first ascent) diff. cat.
2. Leader: Davy M.M., Master of Sport
3. Western Sayan, Ergaki mountain range, Taygishonok river gorge
4. Section in Classification

22nd Open Russian Championship in Alpinism 2004

Rock Climbing Class

Report

On the first ascent by the team from the Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing of Sverdlovsk region (FAiS Sverdlovsk region) on Mt. Orel 1915 m via the center of the north wall. 6B category of difficulty.

Addresses:

TITLE PAGE Mt. Oreshek 1850 m, via East Ridge, cat. 1B diff. 6.2. Irkutsk. 2014. Climbing passport for Mt. Oreshek 1850 m via East Ridge, cat. 1B.

1. Western Sayan, Ergaki Ridge, Nizhnyaya Buiba gorge, section 6.2.
2. Mt. Oreshek (1850 m) via East Ridge.
3. Proposed winter route, first ascent, cat. 1B.
4. Route type: rock climbing.
5. Elevation gain 100 m, route length 500 m, average slope 10°.
6. Pitons used: 3 rock and chock pitons, 2 bolt pitons used for descent.
7. Team's total climbing time: 6 hours.

Title Page

Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, Orehek peak 1850 m, via the South Face, cat. 2B diff. 6.2.

Irkutsk.

Climbing Passport for Orehek peak 1850 m, via the South Face, cat. 2B diff.

1. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, Nizhnee Buibinskoe gorge, section 6.2. 2. Orehek peak (1850) via the South Face. 3. Proposed cat. 2B diff., winter, first ascent. 4. Route type — rock climbing. 5. Elevation gain — 100 m, length — 400 m, average slope — 10°; wall section — 85°. 6. Pitons hammered: wired — 15 pcs, natural features used for belay — 4 times. 7. Team's total climbing time — 7 hours. 8. No bivouacs on the route. 9. Team members: Afanasyev A.E. MS Vlasov V.E. badge Idrisov R.I. badge Lazarenko A.V. badge Nesterov V.N. badge

Ascent Record

1. Area — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
2. Peak — Parus via the center of the S wall.
3. Proposed — 6A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Nature of the route — rock climbing
5. Route characteristics: height difference of the route — 500 m. route length — 550 m. length of sections with 6 category of difficulty — 300 m, 5 category of difficulty — 100 m.

Average steepness