Passport

1. Rock climbing category.
2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Zvezdny Peak, 2265 m, via the Northeast wall.
4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 575 m, route length 665 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty 605 m, average slope 79°.
6. Pitons used: rock nuts bolts ice screws 103/54 214/114 27/17 7/0
7. Climbing time 67 hours, total duration 9 days (including acclimatization).

Ascent Log

1. Ascent classification: technical
2. Ascent area: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge
3. Peak, route: Zvezdny via the NE wall
4. Difficulty category: 6A, winter ascent
5. Height difference: 700 m, with 700 m being wall ascent Total length:
   • 5th difficulty category — 220 m
   • 6th difficulty category — 150 m average route steepness — 67°

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki Ridge, p. 6.2
2. Summit — Zvezdny, 2265 m, via "Cosinusoid" on the NE wall
3. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty — first ascent
4. Route type — combined
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 570 m, total route length — 1020 m, wall section length — 670 m, sections with 6th category of difficulty — 320 m, 5th category of difficulty — 90 m, average steepness of the entire route — 63.3°, wall section — 64.8°, 1st bastion — 51.5°, 2nd bastion — 72.2°.
6. Equipment used on the route: anchor pitons — 107/85, 2 left on pendulum swings, 4 on rappels, camolots — 82/92, about 165 ITOS on "fifths", about 16 ITOS on skyhooks, 2 ITOS on bolt pitons, 7 bolt pitons hammered and left, 3 ears twisted, 4 ears left, on all stations for platform installation and one intermediate key section.
7. Number of climbing hours — 37.5, days — 5. Descent 5.5 hours via Temerev I.'s route, 6A category of difficulty. Overnights — 4, all on the wall platform.

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
2. Peak — Zvezdny via the NE wall and the bastions on the NW ridge
3. Category — 6A, first ascent
4. Route type — rock
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 600 m. Route length — 830 m. Length of 6B sections — 375 m, 5B sections — 220 m. Average steepness of the main part: first bastion — 80°, second — 80°, third — 90°, whole route — 67°.
6. Equipment left on the route: pitons — 1, including drilled pitons — 0, chocks — 1. Pitons used on the route:

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Zvezdny via the right part of the northeast wall 6A category of difficulty by the team from Krasnoyarsk Krai (REDFOXTEAM) from October 11 to 14, 2019

I. Ascent Passport

MINISTRY OF SPORTS OF KRASNOYARSK KRAI KRASNOYARSK KRAI ALPINISM FEDERATION

Siberian Federal District Alpinism Championship

2018

• High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

On the ascent of the Krasnoyarsk Krai team Kolesnikov K.I.—Smetanin N.A. to peak Zvezdny, 2265 m, via the center of the NE wall

• First ascent via "Kvadrat"
• Variant — 6A category of complexity

Contents

Russian Mountaineering Championship

High-Altitude Technical Class 2020

REPORT

On the ascent of the combined team of Krasnoyarsk Krai and Moscow, Parfenov A.A. – Lebedev N.M. to Peak Zvezdny, 2265 m, via the Center of the NE wall, 6A (Khvostenko, 01)

I. Ascent Passport

Working notes from 6A Khvostenko on Zvezdny (July 2020) June 29 10:00 departure 10:35 below the route 11:00 start of work 16:00 above the first ledge by 17 m — 2.5 ropes fixed. 1st rope: Ito, Sky, relief. Installed one new bolt in an old hole. 2nd rope: Ito, Sky, 5 m, climbing to the ledge 6B+/6C. Bolts at the station, but better 5 m higher, just a 60 m rope. 3rd rope: 8 m, climbing in boots. Ito on the flake, wet and slime from under the eave, can be bypassed on the left on the fifi hooks. At the end — climbing on wet rock to the bolts on the eave 5C+. From them traverse right 10 m. Two bolts. Slightly left: one Sky hole, wet; friend under the eave; bolt behind the eave; three Sky holes.

Peak Zvezdny

2265 m

REPORT

of the Tomsk region team (TFA) on the first ascent of the route to Peak Zvezdny via the center of the NE wall "6A" (rock climbing)

Participants:

Temerev I.M., Lebasov E.M., Kopytov F.A., Kovaleva A.V., Novosseltsev A.V. Tomsk – 2013

ASCENT DETAILS

1. Sayan Mountains, Western Sayan, 6.2.13
2. Peak Zvezdny, via the center of the northeast wall.

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing type — rock climbing
2. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge
3. Peak Vostochny Zvezdny, 2190 m via S wall
4. Claimed as — first ascent
5. Route characteristics:

• height difference — 280 m.
• total length 595 m.
• length of sections with 4th cat. diff. — 75 m., 3rd cat. diff. — 200 m.
• average steepness: entire route — 45°.