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(1) 1111 Presvotoputochny via the north-eastern ridge 35 hrs. cat. 4045.
From the base camp on the glaciers of the lakes, follow the trail to Kaznoy Pass to reach the 3rd ridge (5 hours), then head right - up the couloir and steep slope. Bypass the slope from the right and gently ascend the couloir (2 hours). Up the couloir and steep slope. Having passed the slope, enter the "ram's foreheads." The holds are significant (piton belay). From the "ram's foreheads," enter a steep ledge. Along the ledge to the right is a large couloir leading to the second ledge. The rocks are of medium difficulty, with holds (risk of falling!). A strip of streams runs along the couloir. Along the 2nd ledge to the right is the ridge of the counterfort. Up the ledge to the chimney leading to the ridge of the left large rocky tooth. Slightly steep slope along the way. The counterfort consists of plate-like slabs (all holds are for oneself). Piton belay is necessary. From the rocky tooth, left along the ridge is a loose massif, which is bypassed from the right along the wall (good holds - pitons). Then slightly to the right onto the glacier (50°), which is approached from the right and carefully cut into the ridge. A rare case: a pink granite slab polished to a mirror finish. On the glacier, step cutting is required (ice axes, pitons). Along the granite wall, complex climbing leads to the ridge "on faith." Then along the ridge and rocky ascent, which is done through chimneys with entry onto the left shoulder. Many small holds (risk of falling). Then along the destroyed rocks and pass. The entry to it is through complex black rocks onto the shoulder on the left (pitons!). Then the ridge destruction and a distant shoulder along the axis of the finger, which is bypassed from the left along the ledge and a gap. To the gap, from the right along the ledge, a false branch is bypassed, and then along the gentle ridge to the summit of Presvotoputochny Peak (4310 m). Descent is via the patent route.
Recommendations:
I. Entry from the lake no later than 5 am.
- Small rock and ice cat's eyes, head crampons.