Alpinism Federation of the Republic of Buryatia Ulan-Ude 2013

Ascent Report

Team of the Republic of Buryatia to the summit of Ak-su 5217 m via the Moshnikov route on the North Face couloir, 6B, 1984.

Climbing Passport

1. Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Laylyak gorge, section number according to the classification table 5.4.2.
2. Summit "Ak-su (C)" 5217 m. Route via the couloir of the North wall, A. Moshnikov 1984.
3. Proposed complexity: 6B.
4. Nature of the route — mixed.

Ascent Log

I. Category of first ascents. 2. Turkestan Range, Laylak valley 3. Peak Aksu Severnaia, 5217 m, via the center of the north face. 4. Proposed category: 6B, first ascent. 5. Elevation gain: 1467 m; route length: 1718 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty: 6B — 618 m, 5B — 715 m. Average slope of the route: 73°. 6. Pitons used: | Rock pitons | Bolts | Nuts | Ice screws |

Report

• on the championship of alpine training and sports bases and KSP of the All-Union Council of the VDFSO of trade unions in mountaineering 1988
• on the peak Ak-Su Ser. (5217 m)
• on the center of the north wall, variant of Popov's route
• 2nd ascent
• team of ASB "Domбай"
• team coach - Grishchenko Valentin Anatolyevich
• team leader - Chaplynsky Igor Orestovich

Addresses

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — winter
2. Region — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Ak-Su gorge
3. Object — Ak-Su peak
4. Complexity category — 6B (Chaplygin's '88)
5. Elevation gain — 1500 m, length — 1930 m. Length of sections with 6th category of difficulty — 455 m. Average steepness of the route — 68°
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolt | Cams | Ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: | | 269 | 5 | 223 | 83 |

Peak Akksu (N.), 5217 m, center of N. face (Chaplynsky, 1988), Cat. 6B Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Laylyak gorge. 5.4.2.6

Ascent Passport

1. Technical class
2. Pamir-Alay, Laylyak gorge, Turkestan Range
3. Peak Akksu (N.) 5217 m via center of N. face (Chaplynsky, 1988)
4. Category 6B difficulty. 4th ascent.
5. Height difference — 1467 m. Distance — 1910 m. Distance of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 1350 m. Average steepness of the route (face) — 74°

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Laylyak gorge.
3. Peak, route: p. AkSu N. 5217 m, via the center of the N. face through the "nose" (P. Shabalin's route).
4. Complexity category — 6B, second ascent.
5. Height difference: — 1467 m. Route length — 1940 m, length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 255 m, length of sections with 6th cat. diff. — 1350 m. Average steepness:

• main section of the route — 75.5°;
• entire route — 68°.

AkSu (N), center of the North face, 6B cat. diff. by B.A. Khandzhapov

1.4.2. Report on the ascent of the team from Irkutsk to the summit of AkSu (N) via the center of the North face (Ruchkin'96) (3rd ascent)

August 2008 09.09.2008 Khandzhapov Bair

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Laylyak valley, 5.4.2.
2. AkSu (N), 5217 m, center of the North face.
3. Proposed 6B cat. diff. (third ascent).
4. Route type — combined.
5. Height difference — 1517 m, wall section height difference — 1415 m;

Ascent Passport

1. Class: Technical.
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range.
3. Ascent object: peak AkSu Northern
4. Complexity category: 6B cat. (approximately), first ascent.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference: 1200 m,
   • length of sections: 6 c.t. 900 m, 5 c.t. 400 m,
   • average steepness: 70 degrees.

RUSSIAN ALPINISM FEDERATION RUSSIAN CHAMPIONSHIP 2004, WINTER ASCENTS CLASS

Report

The combined team of the Krasnoyarsk Krai Sports Committee ascended Peak Ak-Su (C) 5217 m via the "mirrors" of the central part of the north face. The route is considered to be a first ascent with an estimated difficulty of 6B.

Ascent Details

1. Region — Pamir-Alay, Laylyak region, №5.4.2.
2. Peak — Ak-Su (C) 5217 m. Ascent via the "mirrors" of the central part of the north face.
3. Proposed difficulty — 6B, first ascent.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Route characteristics:

35 pr. 537 i. 1.

27.0384

PASSPORT

1. CATEGORY — snow and ice.
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Suu valley.
3. Peak 4660 m (Badygin) via the North face.
4. Presumed 4A category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference 760 m; total length 1100 m; length of 4th category of difficulty sections 310 m.
6. Average steepness of the route — 45°.
7. Average steepness of the key section 75–80° with a length of 30 m.