Turkestan Range
Route Description: З и СЗ стене
SSummitMateAscent to Pik Bloka via the Maksimenya route, category 6A, on the West and North-West wall.
Ascent Record
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Laylyak valley, 5.4.2.
- Peak Bloka, 5239 m, via West and Northwest wall (Maximenya route, 2008)
- Proposed — 6A category (2nd ascent)
- Route type: rock
- Route height difference: 875 m, wall 790 m (by altimeter)
Route length: 1035 m.
Length of sections:
- 5th category — 125 m.
- 6th category — 615 m.
Route Description: центр. бастиону С стены
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent to Peak A. Blok (5239 m) via the central bastion of the northern wall, difficulty category 5⁵, made by a team of climbers in 1986.
Ascent Passport
- CLASS — technical
- Turkestan Range, Ak-Su gorge
- Peak A. Blok (5239 m) via the central bastion of the northern wall (route by group of S. Efimov)
- DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 5B, fourth ascent
- HEIGHT DIFFERENCE — 1039 m, length of sections with 6th cat. diff. — 583 m, 5th cat. diff. — 325 m. AVERAGE STEEPNESS of the main part of the route — 80°
- NUMBER OF PITS: rock — 138 (31), bolt — 8 (53), chocks — 156, ice — 28 (9)
- CLIMBING TIME — 77.5 hours, days — 6. 1 day of preparation
- NIGHTS: four sitting and hammock bivouacs, one lying on a ridge
- LEADER: Oshé Eduard Andreevich, Master of Sports
Route Description: центр. бастиону С стены
SSummitMateDescription of a category 5B climbing route to the summit of A. Blok (5229 m) via the Central Bastion of the North Face in the Turkestan Range of Pamir-Alay.
Ascent Passport
- Peak, its height, route: p. A. Blok, 5229 m, via the Central Bastion of the North wall.
- Area of ascent: Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su gorge.
- Difficulty category: 5B (participants recommend 6th cat. diff.).
- Route characteristics: length — height difference — average steepness of the route's wall section —
- Pitons hammered:
Route Description: центр. бастиону С стены
SSummitMateFirst ascent of a 6th cat. difficulty grade route via the north face of A. Blok Peak in the Turkestan Range, Ak-Su valley, by a team led by Sergey Efimov.
I. Technical class. 2. Turkestan Ridge. Ak-Su gorge. 3. Peak A. Blok via the central bastion of the North wall. 4. Assumed 6B, first ascent. 5. Height difference 710 m, length 800 m. Length of 6B sections — 500 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 78° (4500–5100 m). 6. Pitons driven: rock: 97/62, bolted: 11/11, nuts: 245/166, ice screws: 20/0 7. Team's total climbing hours: 57 (5 days) 8. Overnights: I–II in hammocks; III–IV — two in hammocks; V on a carved snow-ice ledge.
Route Description: столбу С стены
SSummitMatePassport of the climbing route, category 6B, via the northern pillar of *Pik A. Blok* (5229 m) in the **Turkestan Range**, **Pamir-Alay**.
PASSPORT
- Category of the first ascent.
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su gorge.
- Peak A. Blok, 5229 m, via the pillar on the north face.
- Proposed category: 6B, first ascent.
- Height difference — 780 m, length — 1050 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 760 m. Average slope of the wall part of the route — 75°, of the "pillar" — 81°.
- Number of pitons used: | rock | placed elements | bolt | ice |
Route Description: 3 стене
SSummitMateFirst ascent of Peak A. Blok (5229 m) by the West Face in Pamir-Alay, rated as 6B complexity category.
PASSPORT
I. Category of first ascents 2. Pamir-Alay, Ak-Su valley 3. Peak A. Blok, 5229 m, via West Face 4. Proposed category 6B, first ascent 5. Height difference of the route 760 m, "wall section" 688 m, length — 965 m. Length of sections with category difficulty 5–6 — 805 m, of which category 6 — 425 m. Average steepness of the wall — 78 ± 80° 6. Pitons driven:
- rock: 119 (driven), 40 (left)
- bolt: 32 (driven), 12 (left)
- protection devices: 187 (driven), 60 (left)
Route Description: 3 стене
SSummitMateDescription of the route of 6B category of complexity via the West face of the peak of Alexander Blok in Pamiro-Alai, completed by a team of five people in 1995.
PASSPORT
- Class: technical
- Region: Pamir-Alay, Lailak valley
- Summit: Pik Alexandra Bloka via West face
- Category: 6A
- Elevation difference:
- 680 m
- length 1250 m
- length of 6th category sections 580 m
- average steepness of the main part of the route 82°
Route Description: 3 стене
SSummitMateReport on the ascent of Route 6A category of complexity on the west face of Blok A peak in Pamir-Alay.
Ascent Report
- Ascent category — technical.
- Ascent area: Pamiro-Alai, Turkestan Range, Lailyak valley.
- Peak, route: Blok A. via W wall (K. Valieva).
- Category of difficulty — 6A.
- Height difference: 802 m
- Route length: 988 m
- Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 248 m
Route Description: З стене
SSummitMateReport on the ascent made by the Krasnoyarsk krai team to **Peak Bloka** (5239 m) via the west face, first ascent of a variation to the Valiev route, category 6A.
MINISTRY OF SPORT AND TOURISM OF KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY
TERRITORIAL ALPINISM FEDERATION
RUSSIAN ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP
2010
Class of First Ascents
REPORT
On the ascent of the Krasnoyarsk Territory team to Peak Bлока 5239 m via the west wall. First ascent (variant of the Valiev route) 6A category. Krasnoyarsk 2010
Ascent Passport
Route Description: столбу С стены
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of the "Rereading the Classics" route, category 6A, on the "pillar" of the North Face of Pik Block (Pamir-Alay) in 2019.
MINISTRY OF SPORT, TOURISM AND YOUTH POLICY OF KRASNOYARSK KRAI KRASNOYARSK REGIONAL ALPINISM FEDERATION RUSSIAN ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 2019. High-Altitude Technical Class
REPORT
Combined team of Krasnoyarsk Krai and Novosibirsk Oblast On the first ascent of the route "Re-reading the Classics" via the "pillar" on the Northern wall, presumed 6A category. Krasnoyarsk, Novosibirsk 2019
ASCENT PASSPORT
Region — Pamir-Alay. Turkestan Range, Laylyak valley Peak — Peak Bлока 5239 m via the "pillar" on the Northern wall