Ascent Passport
- Class: Technical.
- Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range.
- Ascent object: peak AkSu Northern
- Complexity category: 6B cat. (approximately), first ascent.
- Route characteristics:
- height difference: 1200 m,
- length of sections: 6 c.t. 900 m, 5 c.t. 400 m,
- average steepness: 70 degrees.
- Pitons driven:
- rock: 59/26,
- bolted: 8/38,
- protection elements: 114/40.
- Number of climbing hours: 90.
- Number of nights: 9.8
- all on platforms
- Departure to the route: August 4, 1996. Summit: August 12, 1996. Return to base camp: August 13, 1996.
- Joint team from Omsk and St. Petersburg.
Tactical Actions of the Team
The team's tactics were determined by the route's features, studying the proposed path through photographs and binoculars, and experience of ascents in the area.
The ascent was preceded by prolonged observation of the route, started during previous Russian Championships. The lower section of the path was deemed rockfall-prone, so the team decided to:
- abandon preliminary processing
- start climbing the wall at 2 am with the intention of completing the icy section of the route in a day.
Particular attention was given to safety. Bolts 'Petzl' were used as safety points on belay stations. The platform was hung on them as well. The team took on the ascent:
- 1 rope type 'Fix rope';
- one 'Edelrid' rope.
The team did not practice advancing processing of sections. The platform was moved as they progressed along the route. Almost all belay stations were equipped with 'Petzl' bolts. The team left hangers for subsequent climbers.
- Group route
- Mochshnikov's route
- Shabalin's route