Turkestan Range
Route Description: С кф.
Description of a category 4A route to the summit 4660 (Turkestan Range) via the northern slope, including details on terrain, belaying, and weather conditions.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class: technical (4251–5250)
- Ascent area: Turkestan Range, Aksu valley
- Peak: p. 4660 (Badygin) via North slope
- Category of complexity: 4A
- Route character: snow-ice
- Height difference — 760 m
- Average steepness — 51°
- Section length:
- R4 — 310 m
Route Description: С стене
Description of the first ascent of Peak A. Blok (5229 m) via the Central Bastion in the Pamir-Alay, made by the MGS DSO "Spartak" team in 1986.
I. First Ascent Category 2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Ak-Su gorge. 3. Pik A. Blok, 5229 m, via Central Bastion. 4. Proposed category 6B, combined, first ascent. 5. Route elevation gain — 780 m. Route length — 945 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 730 m. Average steepness of the route — 65°. Average steepness of the bastion wall — 75°. 6. Pitons driven:
Route Description: СЗ кф. и СЗ стене
First ascent of the Northwest Pillar and Northwest Wall of Pik A. Bloka (5239 m) in Pamiro-Alai, cat. 5.5, combined route.
Ascent Logbook
- Category of Climbing Difficulty: First Ascent
- Location: Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge
- Peak A. Blok, 5239 m, via the Northwest Counterfort and Northwest Wall.
- Proposed category of difficulty: 5B, combined, first ascent.
- Height difference: total, wall section (sections R17–R28) | | Total | Wall Section (R17–R28) | | :--------------------------------------- | :-------: | :-------------------------: | | Height Difference | 840 m | 430 m | | Distance | 1040 m | 455 m |
Route Description: СЗ кф. и СЗ стене
First ascent of the northwest buttress of Peak 5229 (A. Blok) via the west wall in Pamiro-Alai, cat. 5B, July-August 1986.
I.
Category — first ascent
2. Pamir-Alay, Ak-Su gorge
3. Peak 5229 (A. Blok) via the West face of the North-West spur
4. Proposed — 5B cat. diff., first ascent
5. Height difference: 725 m, length — 800 m. Length of 5–6 cat. diff. sections 625 m. Average steepness of the lower bastion — 86°. Average steepness of the route — 75°, of which 6 cat. diff. — 86° (4565–4870 m); — 76° (4970–5115 m)
6. Pitons hammered:
rock — 54/27, bolted — 7/6, chocks, friends — 228/128, ice — none
7. Team's travel hours — 48.5 h, days — 6
Route Description: ЮЗ гребню
Ascent by the "Baro" alpine club team to Peak A. Blok via the Western ridge in the Turkestan Range during the 1993 Russian Championship.
PASSPORT
- Technical class
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Laylyak gorge area
- Peak A. Blok, 5239 m, via the Southwest Ridge
- Difficulty category — 5B
- Elevation gain 800 m, length 1200 m, length of sections with 5–6 diff. cat. — 300 m
- Pitons hammered: rock: 44/30; bolted: 5; chocks: 71/47; ice: 15. Previously hammered pitons used: 0.
- Team's travel hours — 21 hours, days — 4
Route Description: ЮЗ гребню
Report on the team's ascent of Peak A. Blok (5239 m) via the Southwest Ridge in 1989 with a detailed description of the route and technical details.
Passport
I. Technical Class
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su gorge
- Peak Blok A., 5239 m, via the Southwest Ridge (N. Petrichenko's route)
- Category 5B difficulty
- Route characteristics:
- Elevation gain: 790 m
- Length: 990 m
- Length of sections with 5th-6th difficulty category: 400 m
- Average slope of the route: 55°
Route Description: ЮЗ гребню
Ascent record of the "Kant" alpine club team to Peak A. Blok (5239 m) via the south-west ridge in 1989, category of complexity 5B.
Ascent Passport
of the Kaliningrad Regional Council of the VDFSO Trade Unions (alpine club "Kant") team within the framework of the first Championship of the Russian Council of VDFSO Trade Unions on alpinism 1989.
- Ascent class — technical.
- Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range.
- Ascent object — Peak A. Blok (5239 m) via the southwestern ridge (Petricheko route).
- Route difficulty category — 5B.
- Route characteristics:
- Height difference — 963 m
- Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 367 m
- Average steepness: overall — 52.4°
Route Description: ЮЗ гребню
Description of a 5B category difficulty route to Peak 5229 (A. Blok) via the North-Western ridge in the Turkestan Range.
Passport
- Category — technical.
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Suu valley.
- Peak 5229 (A. Blok) via North-West ridge.
- Petrichenko's 5B category route from 1984 is proposed.
- Height difference: 1020 m, length 1101 m.
- Length of 5th–6th category sections — 770 m. Average steepness of the route — 66°, including:
- 6th category — 4500–4790 m — 85°
- 4790–5089 m — 74°
Route Description: ЮЗ гребню
Description of a Category 5B climbing route to Peak 5239 (Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range) via the West Ridge, including passage details and technical characteristics.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Technical category.
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su gorge.
- Peak 5239 (A. Blok) via the Western ridge.
- Proposed — 5B cat. diff., combined, second ascent.
- Height difference — 790 m, route length — 990 m. Average slope of the route — 55°. Average slope of the icy part of the route — 50°. Average slope of the main rock part — 72°. Length of sections with 5th and 6th cat. diff. — 400 m.
- Number of pitons: | rock | nuts | ice |
Route Description: ЮЗ гребню
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Blok Peak (5239 m) in the Turkestan Range of the Pamir-Alay, complexity category II AС, duration of the route is 2 days, 22.5 walking hours.
PASSPORT
- Technical class.
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, AkSu valley.
- Peak Blok (5239 m) via SW ridge.
- First ascent, 5B cat. difficulty is assumed.
- Length of sections: 6th cat. difficulty — 55 m 5th cat. difficulty — 980 m Average steepness of main sections: 85–90° (4670–4770, 4800–4870, 5000–5040), 80–85° (4600–4670), all of 5–6 cat. difficulty.
- Pitons driven: rock, bolt, chocks, ice 54/14 2/2 60/3 35/0