Ascent Report

Team from Irkutsk Region to the summit of Akksu North (5217 m) via the center of the bastion on the North face, Mogila route 2006 (second ascent) Pamiro-Alai, July–August 2008 Angarsk

Ascent Passport

1. Pamiro-Alai, Lyaylyak gorge area, 5.4.2
2. p. Akksu (N), 5217 m, via the center of the bastion on the N face, Mogila route 2006
3. Proposed — 6B cat. diff., second ascent
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain: 1437 m (3780–5217)

Ascent of the LPI team on Ak-su North peak, 5217 m, cat.6B, July 1988

Ascent Passport

1. Class — technical
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-su gorge
3. Ak-su North peak, 5217 m, via the left bastion of the North face (Kavunenko route)
4. Sixth category of difficulty, repeat ascent
5. Elevation gain — 1617 m, route length — 2230 m, length of sections with 6th cat. difficulty — 500 m, 5th cat. difficulty — 920 m. Average slope of the main part of the route — 81° (3630–4560 m), most difficult sections — 89° (3630–3760 m), 87° (4020–4370 m)
6. Pitons used (total/for climbing), * — previously driven pitons used

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Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan ridge, Laylyak gorge, 5.4.2.6.
2. Name of the summit: AkSu (N) 5217 m, name of the route:
3. Proposed – 6th cat. diff., first ascent.
4. Nature of the route: Combined
5. Height difference of the route: 1467 m Route length: 1940 m Length of sections with R0 cat. diff. – 400 m, R1 cat. diff. – 1155 m Average steepness of the main part of the route – 73 °

Passport

I. Technical Class 2. Pamiro-Alai, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su valley 3. Peak Ak-Su (5217) via 10-B rib 4. Proposed 6A first ascent 5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain – 1350 m Length – 2600 m Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade – 1217 m Average steepness of the main part – 71°

Passport

1. Technical class
2. Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Lyaylyak gorge
3. Peak Ak-Su (North) 5217 m
4. Difficulty category 6A
5. Elevation gain 1510 m, length 2080 m, including 1550 m of bastion
6. Average slope 68°. Average slope of steep section 72°.
7. Pitons driven: | Rock | Nut | Ice | Bolt removable | Friend |

Peak Ak-su© 5217 m. To the Cold Angle on the N wall 6A cat. dif., A. Antonov, 1997 Pamiro-Alai, Turkestan ridge. Laylak valley R5–R4–R6.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — winter
2. Ascent area — Pamiro-Alai, Turkestan ridge, Laylak valley
3. Peak Ak-su© 5217 m. To the Cold Angle on the N wall (third ascent)
4. Category of difficulty — 6A
5. Height difference — 1460 m. Length — 1840 m. Length of 5–6 cat. dif. sections — 1520 m. Average

Passport

1. Technical category.
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su valley.
3. Peak Ak-Su/Northern (5217 m).
4. Category of complexity 6A.
5. Height difference 1510 m, length 2080 m, including 1550 m of bastion.
6. Average steepness of the route 68 Average steepness of the wall part 72
7. Pitons hammered: rock: 22/1+6*

Ak-su (N) 5217 m — cold angle of northern wall (first ascent), Pamir-Alai, Turkestan ridge, Lyaylyak gorge 5.4.2.6

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Turkestan ridge, Lyaylyak gorge
3. Peak Ak-su (N) 5217 m — cold angle of N wall (first ascent)
4. Category of difficulty — 6 (proposed)
5. Height difference — 1460 m. Length — 1840 m. Length of sections of 5–6 difficulty category — 1520 m. Average steepness of the route — 61° (3750–5217 m), wall — 67° (3750–4850 m)
6. Hooks left on the route: rock — 7

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Lailyak gorge.
3. Peak, route: p. Ak-Su (N), 5217 m, A. Antonova via the "cold corner".
4. Category of difficulty — 6A, 4th ascent.
5. Height difference: 1460 m. Route length — 2040 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1190 m. Average slope: of the route — 65°, of its wall section — 70°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 76/41, chocks — 134/40, ice screws — 78/2, bolt pitons — 17/6. Left on the route: cams — 1, rock pitons — 6.