27.0384

PASSPORT

CATEGORY — snow and ice.
Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Suu valley.
Peak 4660 m (Badygin) via the North face.
Presumed 4A category of difficulty, first ascent.
Height difference 760 m; total length 1100 m; length of 4th category of difficulty sections 310 m.
Average steepness of the route — 45°.
Average steepness of the key section 75–80° with a length of 30 m.
Pitons driven: a) For belays: Rock — 0 Ice screws — 15 b) For AID — 0 The route is snow and ice.
Travel hours — 6 hours to the summit; descent via 2A category of difficulty route (approximately) — 2 hours.
Overnight stays on the route were not done; places for overnight stays are available.
Group composition — a team of two:

KULIKOV Igor Vladimirovich, 1st sports category — leader KARIMOVA Olga Alexandrovna, 1st sports category — participant

Coach — KENSITSKY Leopold Vsevolodovich, Master of Sports of the USSR.
Departure to the route — August 13, 1983. Peak 4660 m — August 14, 1983. Return to "Alay" tourist center — August 14, 1983.

August 14, 1983.

Section	Average steepness	Length	Nature of terrain	Cat. diff.	State of the route	Weather conditions	Pitons (rock / ice screws / chocks)	Movement type	Departure time
R0–R1	45°	200 m	Firn gully	3	Dense firn, with frozen water flows	Frosty	0 / 0 / 0	Simultaneously	8:00
R1–R2	75–80°	30 m	Ice slope	1	Exposed ice	Frosty	0 / 4 / 0	Alternately
R2–R3	45°	120 m	Glacier tongue	3	Ice, exposed or with white crust	Frosty	0 / 4 / 0	Alternately
R3–R4	50–55°	200 m	Glacier tongue	4			0 / 5 / 0	Alternately
R4–R5	40–45°	430 m	Firn and ice	3	Firn. Ice in places, crevasses	Sunny	0 / 0 / 0	Simultaneously	11:00
R5–R6	50°	60 m	Ice slope	4	Exposed ice	Sunny	0 / 2 / 0	Alternately
R6–R7	25°	200 m	Scree ridge	2	Slate ridge, firn in places	Sunny, windy	0 / 0 / 0	Simultaneously	13:00