WORLD ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP

TECHNICAL CLASS

REPORT

On the ascent of the team A/K "Odessa" to Pik Bloka

Via the North face, first ascent. Odessa, 2013

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alay. Turkestan range. Laylyak valley
2. Pik Bloka, 5239 m via the center of the North face
3. Proposed grade — 6A, first ascent

Report.

On the as­cent to the sum­mit A. Blok (East­ern) 5150 m via the coun­ter­fort of the East­ern wall by the team 12 of the Sports Club Ary­sy SABO. Team coach E. T. Ilyin­sky. Team cap­tain 2005 year 10. A-pix. 6–8/2–86. Lcio­za­ch 10.12. Su de­ca 0.24. Kha­ne­ts­tob 3.44. 845, 1096, 4 E / 401 41 / 95 86 / 12 60 / 82 а х а, 13 / 11 · 1 / 2, 1 / 2 su А, 20 рас, 3 пу

I. Technical Category

1. Technical category
2. Pamiro-Alay, Ak-su valley
3. Blok Vostochny peak via the North-Eastern wall
4. Proposed - 6B, first ascent.
5. Height difference - 900 m, length - 1010 m. Length of 5-6B sections - 710 m. Length of 6B sections - 426 m. Average route steepness - 76°. Of which 6B (4280-4680 m) - 83°.
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolts | Ice screws | Rock chocks | Ice chocks | Ice pitons |

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Technical class.
2. Pamir-Alay, Ak-Su valley.
3. Mt. East A. Blok (5150 m), via northwestern wall and northern ridge.
4. Category 5B, third ascent.
5. Elevation gain 830 m. Average length 1008 m. Average slope 65°. Average wall slope 75°. Length of sections with 5th and 6th difficulty categories 315 m.
6. Pitons used: rock: 86/20 bolted: –

Passport

1. Class of ascent — technical.
2. Region of ascent, ridge — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Ak-Su gorge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — East A.Block, 5150 m, via northwestern wall and northern ridge, combined.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 830 m
   • route length — 915 m
   • wall section length — 590 m
   • ridge section length — 325 m

Passport

1. Traverse class
2. Alay Range, Ak-Su valley, Pamir
3. Traverse peak A. Blok (East) — A. Blok (Main) — peak 4600 m — Ak-Su (North) — Ak-Su (Main)
4. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Length — 10,230 m Length of sections with 5B–6B category of difficulty — 1040 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 61°, of which 6B category of difficulty — 85° (4600–4915)
6. Pitons hammered: rock – 223, bolted – 0, chocks – 234, ice – 18. Additional: rock – 21, bolted – 0, chocks – 6, ice – 0.
7. Team's walking hours — 103, days — 10
8. Overnights — all overnights are bivouac, on the ridge

1. Rock class.
2. Pamir-Alay, Akh-Su gorge.
3. Peak 3900 m via North-West edge.
4. Second ascent of category 3A difficulty, approximately.
5. Height difference 400 m, average steepness 40°, length 790 m.
6. Pitons driven — 8 pcs.
7. Climbing hours — 5.
8. No overnight stays on the route.
9. Leader: Sytnyk D. N. — 1st sports category. Participants: Glushchenko A. A. — 1st sports category,

Alpinist Camp

“Alay”

July 13, 1983 rock climbing category

27

REPORT

on the ascent to peak 3,900 m (Domashnyaya) via the north-eastern ridge by the team MGS DSO “Zenit” 660, 19-V/160, 50°, 9 pitons, 12 karabiners, 6 hours by the duo Gutsol A.F. — 1st sports category, Makhnovetskiy A.B. — 1st sports category. Coach — Kozlov D.E. — Master of Sports of the USSR.

1. Climbing type — rock climbing
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su gorge.
3. Summit — Peak 3900 m via North-Eastern ridge.
4. Difficulty category — 4A
5. Route characteristics:
   • Elevation gain — 660 m;
   • Length of sections with IV–V difficulty category — 160 m, including: IV category — 140 m, V category — 20 m. Average steepness of the route — 45°.
6. Pitons hammered:
   • Rock pitons — 18;

1. Climbing class - rock.
2. Climbing area - Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Ak-Su gorge.
3. Object of ascent - p. "3900" (v. Domashnaya) along the southwestern ridge.
4. Estimated category of difficulty - 4B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference - 660 m, length - 800 m, average steepness - 56°, length of sections 5 category of difficulty - 140 m, length of sections 4 category of difficulty - 155 m, length of sections 1 category of difficulty - 340 m.
6. Pitons hammered: rock 42, chocks 6.
7. Travel hours - 9.