Alpinist Camp

“Alay”

July 13, 1983

rock climbing category

27

REPORT

on the ascent to peak 3,900 m (Domashnyaya) via the north-eastern ridge by the team MGS DSO “Zenit” 660, 19-V/160, 50°, 9 pitons, 12 karabiners, 6 hours

by the duo Gutsol A.F. — 1st sports category, Makhnovetskiy A.B. — 1st sports category. Coach — Kozlov D.E. — Master of Sports of the USSR.

UIAA scheme of the ascent route to peak 3,900 m via the NE ridge.

Explanation of the UIAA scheme

On sections 3–4 and 5–6, the route is rockfall-prone in the inner corners. The route is ridge-like, logical, and has many passage options on almost all sections.

The route has the following features:

• Dirty rock sections — the complexity of the route increases significantly in wet weather.
• Section 7–8 — the key point of the route — passing a small cornice.

Descent to the south via a route of category 2B difficulty.

Photo #2. Profile of the ridge from the east. Taken from the western spur of peak 4,325 m. Lens — T-43 (F=75). Distance — 1.5 km. Height — 3,500 m. Date — July 15, 1983. Time — 17:00.

Photo #3. Technical photograph of the route, taken from Ak-Su gorge.

• Distance — 2.5 km
• Height — 3,000 m
• Lens — I-26M (F=52)
• Date — July 14, 1983
• Time — 11:00.