First ascender: Zhukov V. — rest of the information is lost. Further data on Shekhovtsov S.'s group.

Ascent Passport

1. Western Tian-Shan, Chatkal Ridge. #7 / 7.12 according to the 2001 classifier
2. Mt. Bolshoy Chimgan. 3309 m via N ridge / W spur.
3. Proposed category: 2A category of difficulty
4. Route type: Combined (ridge)
5. Route elevation gain: 1499 m (by GPS) Route length: 3680 m (by GPS) Section lengths:
   • II category of difficulty – 2267 m (by GPS)

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Chatkal Ridge
3. Peak, its area, and ascent route. Bolshoy Chimgan, 3277 m, via the Western counterfort of the Northern ridge
4. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1700 m, average steepness — 30°, length of sections: R1–50 m, R2–60 m, R3–80 m, R4–60 m, R5–200 m, R6–50 m, R7–2.5 m, R8–40 m, R9–400 m.
5. Proposed difficulty category — 2B category of difficulty
6. Number of pitons used: for belaying, for creating belay stations: rock — 5, ice — 0, bolt — 0.
7. Number of travel hours — 10 hours
8. Number of nights and their characteristics — one-day ascent
9. Full name of the leader and participants, their sports qualification:

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing type: rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Tian Shan, Chatkal Ridge.
3. Peak, its area and ascent route: Bolshoi Chimgan, 3277 m, West wall of the North ridge.
4. Route description: height difference — 1700 m, average steepness — 40°. Length of sections R1–40 m, R2–20 m, R3–25 m, R4–50 m, R5–120 m, R6–40 m, R7–80 m, R8–40 m.
5. Proposed category of difficulty: 3A.
6. Number of pitons driven: for belaying: rock II.

Ascent Certificate

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Tian Shan, Chatkal Ridge.
3. Peak, its area, and ascent route: Bolshoy Chimgan (3277 m), Northwest Wall.
4. Route characteristics: height difference — 1700 m, average steepness — 30°. Section lengths: R0–R1 – 25 m, R1–R2 – 60 m, R2–R3 – 60 m, R3–R4 – 70 m, R4–R5 – 200 m, R5–R6 – 40 m, R6–R7 – 80 m, R7–R8 – 300 m.
5. Proposed difficulty category — 3A.
6. Pitons hammered:
   • for belaying: rock — 12.

Description of the First Ascent Route to Peak Bolshoy Chimgan via the Left Counterfort of the Wall, Category 3B

February 6, 1978

We depart from the base camp located in the Ak-Sai valley at 10:00. We ascend to the Western Ridge via a Category 1B route. Upon reaching the junction of the Western Ridge and a false ridge (joining from the right), we descend with a slight traverse of the Western Ridge towards the summit. Descending into the Belder-Sai valley, we move upstream until the confluence of three couloirs. We continue up the left couloir. Approaching the wall, it's easy to identify the counterfort, which the route follows, forming the right side of the central couloir that divides the entire Belder-Sai rock massif into two parts. The route begins from a cave located at the boundary between snow and rock, one rope length away from the left edge of the counterfort. The cave provides a good overnight stay and has a guiding cairn. The entire approach took 9–10 hours.

February 7, 1978

Departure at 9:30.

R1

Climbing Passport

I. Climbing category — technical. 2. Climbing area — Tian Shan, Chatkal Range. 3. Climbing route — to v. Bolshoy Chimgan via the northwest wall, peak height — 3207 m above sea level. 4. Climbing characteristics: — height difference — 1500 m, — average steepness — 65°, — length of the difficult section — 600 m. 5. Pitons hammered: — rock — 55

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent region — Tian Shan, Chatkal Ridge.
3. Ascent route — to the summit of Big Chimgan via the north-eastern wall. Summit elevation — 3207 m above sea level.
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • elevation gain — 2000 m;
   • average steepness — 62°;
   • complex section length — 700 m.
5. Pitons hammered in:
   • rock — 35

Map of the area ▲ – base camp △ – overnight stay location → – ascent and descent route from the summit.

Brief description of the route

1. Brief description of the approach to the route From the "Chimgan" tourist center, head upwards towards the GuliKam or Pesochny pass (1833 m). Then, through the pass, into the GuliKam gorge until the confluence of GuliKamsay and Kuilyuksay (1.5–2 hours). Here, the trail branches:

• one leads to the GuliKam gorges;
• the other — upstream along the Kuilyuksay riverbed to the start of the route — the base of the far-reaching left counterfort of the north-eastern wall of Bolshoy Chimgan.

3. The summit, its height, and the ascent route: Bolshoy Chimgan (3277 m), the left buttress of the north-eastern wall.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 4B.
5. Characteristics of the route: height difference along the route — 1677 m. average steepness of the route — 70° length of sections of category I difficulty — 2500 m, II category difficulty — 1880 m, III category difficulty — 190 m, IV category difficulty — 85 m, V category difficulty — 220 m, VI category difficulty — 20 m
6. Number of pitons driven: for belaying 114 pcs; for creating artificial footholds 2 pcs. rock — 114 pcs, ice and snow —
7. Number of travel hours — 23 hours.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: one overnight stay, on a scree ledge, good bivouac.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification: Leader: Murtazin Oleg Galimovich — 1st sports category.

Zamok (3670) via the center of the North Ridge — 5A (rock)

Climbing Route Passport:

1. Western Tian Shan, Pskem Ridge, section №7.14 according to the 2013 classifier
2. Zamok peak (3670 m) via the center of the North Ridge (c. N. r.)
3. 5A category of difficulty
4. First ascent: Sergeev A. (1982)
5. Description compiled by: Shekhovtsov S., Makhmudov U., Mayorova L. (2013)

Route Description:

From the base camp on the moraine under Zamok peak, it takes 1 hour to reach the foot of the wall via scree or snow. Approach the wall, bypassing a massive red "rhombus" on the right, which is half the height of the wall. Above the "rhombus," a rock ridge is clearly visible, along which the route goes. Start of the route. Continue moving left and upwards along the wall via a system of scree inclined shelves, alternating with short, easy walls. — 400 m.