Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - technical 2. Ascent area - Western Tian-Shan, Pskem Ridge 3. Ascent route - peak "Koi-Tau" 3560 m via North-Eastern counterfort 4. Estimated complexity category - 4A 5. Route characteristics: - height difference - 520 m - average steepness - 66° 6. Pitons hammered: - rock - 68

August 15.

Route Description

3718 m. From the base camp located on the moraine under the northern walls of Mt. Piazak, the approach to the saddle of the North Ridge is via a snowy couloir (scree in summer) along the rocky outcrops on the left (1 hour). From the saddle: — right along the ridge (60 m, 45°, snow) under a rocky outcrop; — then along the couloir (40 m, 50°, snow, местами натёчный лёд) towards the rocky wall in the ridge (piton belay). The wall is traversed on the left and via broken rocks — exit to a steep snowy section of the ridge. Moving on the right side of the ridge, exit onto broken rocks. Along the snowy ridge 250 m to the summit (snow cornices on both sides, movement in rope teams). The summit is broken rocks. In fact, the summit of Piazak is double-headed. The Eastern and Western summits are at least 500 m apart and are of equal height. The ridge between them is snowy and presents no technical difficulty. The control cairn is set on the Eastern summit. The descent from the summit to the base camp took 2 hours via the ascent route. A easier descent is possible via the Western summit along its Western slope into another cirque, but in this case, having lost altitude, one will have to climb back to the base camp, bypassing Piazak from the West.

I. Rock grade 20: height difference — 700 m, average steepness — 45° 35: Borisov E.I. — Candidate Master of Sports, instructor. Lukin A.A. — 3rd sports grade, Launitc D.V. — 3rd sports grade, Luneva R.A. — 3rd sports grade, Baymølin G.A. — 2nd sports grade. 10. Team coach — MS Kuznetsova N.P. II. Date of departure on the route and return — April 30, 1982. 2. Western Tian-Shan, Pokemsky ridge. Piazak 3. v. Piazak, 3718 m, from the saddle of the Northern ridge. 4. Category of difficulty 2B, 15 rock 5. Route characteristics: