Ascent Certificate
- Ascent class — rock climbing.
- Ascent area: Tian Shan, Chatkal Ridge.
- Peak, its area, and ascent route: Bolshoy Chimgan (3277 m), Northwest Wall.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 1700 m, average steepness — 30°. Section lengths: R0–R1 – 25 m, R1–R2 – 60 m, R2–R3 – 60 m, R3–R4 – 70 m, R4–R5 – 200 m, R5–R6 – 40 m, R6–R7 – 80 m, R7–R8 – 300 m.
- Proposed difficulty category — 3A.
- Pitons hammered:
- for belaying: rock — 12.
- for creating intermediate belay anchors: rock — 1.
- ice — (not specified).
- bolted pitons — (not specified).
- Number of climbing hours — 10.
- Number of nights and their characteristics — one-day ascent.
- Full name of the leader and participants, their sports qualification:
- Saratov Yu. S. — Master of Sports — leader.
- Korovkin O. A. — Candidate for Master of Sports.
- Shanin A. — 3rd sports category.
- Tukhvatullin I. — 3rd sports category.
- Shmitko O. — 3rd sports category.
- Siyanitsa N. — 3rd sports category.
- Yakushev A. — 3rd sports category.
- Team coaches: Popova I. A. and Delovakhin V. V.
- Date of departure and return: May 4, 1978.
Description of the Ascent Route to Bolshoy Chimgan Peak (3277 m) via the Northwest Wall, 3A category of difficulty (approximately)
From the 87th km of the Tashkent-Brichmulla road, move up the Katта-Koksay. In the upper reaches of the Say, climb steeply to the left along the grassy-scree slopes to the very base of the wall. The time taken to approach from the road to the base of the wall is 2.5–3 hours. This is the starting point of the route.
The Northwest Wall is a rocky ascent of the ridge connecting the Bolshoy Chimgan massif with Maly Chimgan. The route is clearly visible from a distance in the left part of the Bolshoy Chimgan massif.
R0–R1. Climb 20–25 m straight up steep (65°) grey and smooth rocks. Belay with pitons (2–3 pitons). Reach the first horizontal ledge.
R1–R2. From the first ledge, a rocky gully is visible to the right and upwards. Move along its left edge straight up to the 2nd narrow scree ledge. The section length is about 60 m. "Loose rocks!" Steepness in the upper part is up to 70°. Belay with pitons (3 pitons).
R2–R3. From the second scree ledge, climb 60 m upwards. The steepness is moderate — 50°. The rocks are heavily destroyed. Rockfall hazard! There are many loose rocks on the section that can be dislodged by climbers or by the rope. The section can be passed quite safely with the correct choice of direction. Belay with pitons (4 pitons). Reach the large third scree ledge. On the ledge is the 1st control cairn.
R3–R4. First, move 30 m to the left along the ledge. Then, exit onto the ridge along moderately difficult destroyed rocks. Move in the direction right-upwards about 40 m. At the top, there is a sheer rocky wall 3 m high. Complex climbing. Average steepness is 60°. At the top of the wall is the 2nd control cairn. The overall height of the wall is about 160 m. Time taken to pass the wall is 4 hours.
R4–R5. Continue along the scree slope, and then across snowy fields to the junction of the Northwest and North ridges of the Bolshoy Chimgan massif.
Move along the North ridge to the right, towards the summit of Bolshoy Chimgan. The ridge is mixed, with a gradual gain in height. Its length is about 1000 m. Mainly, move along the ridge simultaneously in rope teams, on a shortened rope. It is recommended to strictly follow the line of the ridge when overcoming snowy sections, as the slopes are avalanche-prone. Belay is provided both through the ridge line and through outcrops on rocky sections.
In the lower third of the North ridge, there are technically complex rocky sections where movement becomes alternating.
R5–R6. Approximately 200 m beyond the "ridge junction" is a section of steep (50–60°) strongly smoothed monolithic rocks 35–40 m high. Despite the apparent complexity, it is relatively easy to overcome using a system of three inclined ledges arranged in a zigzag. At the turning points, there are places for hammering pitons.
R6–R7. Continue along the narrow rocky ridge (about 70–80 m), which ends in a so-called "gap", descending into which is done along slabs with gravel. Here, one has to move with their back to the slope with careful belaying of a partner through a convenient outcrop. The outcrop allows for rope retrieval when the last climber descends. The length of the hazardous section is no more than 15 m.
R7–R8. Beyond the "gap", movement along the ridge line becomes difficult due to its jaggedness. There is a convenient bypass of the ridge on the left along rocky slopes covered with small gravel. The easy but quite hazardous section (movement above a precipice) is about 40 m long. It is recommended to work in turns with belaying through outcrops.
Further along the North ridge, there are no technical difficulties, and it leads to the summit of Bolshoy Chimgan. The entire ascent to the summit takes 8–10 hours.
The descent is convenient along the West ridge, category 1B. The route is of interest as a training wall ascent. Moreover, the width of the wall allows for various options in choosing the path; however, the route is traversed unambiguously. This allows participants to gain experience in route selection. The wall ascent route is beautiful and extremely logical.
The route was first climbed in 1951 by a group consisting of:
- Arzanov A. I. — leader;
- Ovcharov G. N.
- Ishankulov M. I.
- Nazarov I. N.
- Karchevsky V. F.
The group that provided the description agrees with the recommendations of the first ascenders and assesses the difficulty of the route as category 3A.
View of Bolshoy Chimgan peak from the northwest.
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Profile of the Northwest wall of Bolshoy Chimgan peak. (Upper wall, 2nd cairn, 3rd cairn, 0 base of the wall).
Section 5–6.
