Peter I Range

Description of the route to the summit of Elvira Shataeva peak, difficulty category 3B, with technical details and required equipment.

After the couloir, traversing left upwards the scree slopes, we come to a destroyed counterfort of yellowish color. On the left (in the direction of travel) side of this counterfort, on the border of rocks and snow, we move straight up to the exit to the main ridge, leading to the summit. The ridge is snow-rocky, heavily destroyed, in some places under the snow, there is ice. The path along the ridge is unambiguous and leads straight to the summit "feathers". On the ridge, there are several small gendarmes, overcome head-on, and two are bypassed on the left. When bypassing gendarmes, the insurance is hook-type. Under the snow, ice is possible. There are several large cornices on the ridge, hanging over the right (in the direction of travel) slopes of the ridge.

Description of the ascent route to Elvira Shataeva Peak (5690 m) in the Central Pamir from the east by a group of Ukrainian climbers in 1976.

General Information about the Peak Peak Elvira Shatayeva (5690 m) is located in one of the lateral ridges branching off from the Peter the First Ridge (Central Pamir). The peak was first conquered in 1974 by a group led by V. Shatayev. The ascent was made along the southwestern slopes of the peak from the Tanymas Glacier. In 1976, a group of Ukrainian climbers made the first ascent to the peak from the east, 25. Group composition: I. Kovtun V.G. — MS — leader Galas F. — IMS — participant Podgorsky V.M. — IMS — participant Tkachenko V.F. — 1st category — participant Okhrimenko V.N. — 1st category — participant Kovtun N.P. — 1st category — participant

Report on the ascent of a group of climbers to "Peak 5600" in the Central Pamir, description of a category 2 complexity route.

Umarov's Report On the ascent to the summit "Peak 5600" (approximately 2B category of difficulty) by a group of climbers from the MAI sports club The summit "Peak 5600" is located in the Central Pamir region, in one of the northern ridges of the Peter the First ridge. Diagram of the summit location. From a sporting perspective, this summit is of interest as an object for training and acclimatization ascents. Characteristic features of this route, as well as many routes in this area, are: Unstable rock formations; Unpredictable weather conditions; High altitude. The initial section of the route: the upper part of the Suloev meadow (absolute height 3900 m) - the boundary of the snow cover; it passes to the north on the left side of the couloir along a medium scree with an average steepness of approximately 30–40°. Further along the snowy slope, it becomes gentler at a height of 5100 m. At this height, near a large reddish rock (about 10 m in diameter), an overnight stay was organized for acclimatization purposes. The entire section of the route from the Suloev meadow to the reddish rock took 5 hours. The path then lies along a snowy ridge with a gentle slope to the northwest to the pre-summit rise. The time taken for this section was 1 hour. The pre-summit rise is a snowy slope with small rocky outcrops with a steepness of approximately 40–45°. Here, protection is possible using an ice axe. The time taken for this section and the descent to the reddish rock was 2 hours. The further descent follows the ascent route.

Climbing route description for the "30 let Sovetskogo gosudarstva" peak (6447 m) in the Pamir mountains via the North-East face, rated as 6th category of difficulty.

Ascent Passport Ascent class — high-altitude technical Ascent area — Pamir, Petra I ridge Peak, its height, and ascent route: 30 let Sovetskogo gosudarstva, 6447 m, via the center of the NE wall Expected difficulty category — sixth Route characteristics: height difference — 2240 m, average steepness — 65°, section lengths: 1st diff. cat. — 30 m, 3rd diff. cat. — 135 m, 4th diff. cat. — 360 m, 5th diff. cat. — 1565 m, 6th diff. cat. — 590 m Pitons driven:

Report on the ascent to the peak of Suloev via the southwest wall, right buttress, category 5B complexity, second ascent, Central Pamir.

Report on the ascent of Pik Suloeva via the SW wall, right buttress, category 5B, second ascent, Central Pamir, Fortambek Glacier; accomplished by a group of climbers from the CS F and S expedition from August 10 to 12, 1980, consisting of: Petrov A.E. — leader, 1st sports category, instructor Maltsev I.V. — participant, 1st sports category, doctor Troyanov V.M. — participant, 1st sports category Filonov Yu.V. — participant, 1st sports category MOSCOW 1980 Since the first ascenders do not submit their route for classification, by agreement with V. M. Bozhukov, this route can be considered a first ascent. November 20, 1980 A.E. Petrov Pik Suloeva

First ascent of Peak V. Suloeva (5816 m) via the south face, route description, findings and recommendations, complexity 5.2 category.

Moscow City Council Burevestnik Sports Club Ascent of Peak Suloev via the South Face, 5816 m (first ascent) Leader: V.M. Nadbakh-Kiedessa Participants: I.V. Grebenshchikov V.K. Nevorotin Moscow, 1969 The participants of this group are part of the team from the Central Council of the Burevestnik Sports Club, formed in the spring of 1969 to undertake high-altitude and technically challenging ascents. In the summer of 1968, as part of the 2nd complex expedition of the Moscow City Council Burevestnik Sports Club, the participants of this group ascended Peak Lenin.

Ascent to Peak Suloev (5816 m) via the western ridge, first ascent category 48, route description and climbing details.

Report on Ascent to Pik Suloeva (5816 m) via the West Ridge First ascent, approximately 4A category of difficulty (Protocol No. 313, 3A). Leader – Zaseckij V. G. Fortambek Glacier Basin The summit of Pik Suloeva (5816 m) is located in the eastern branch of the northern spur of the Peter I Range, branching off from Pik Moskva. The ascent to the summit was undertaken for acclimatization purposes, and therefore it was decided to climb the peak via the easiest route, which, after studying images of the summit from different sides, was assumed to lead to the summit from the Western cirque. The ascent was planned and prepared in Moscow. On July 17, 1969, at 6:00, the group consisting of Zaseckij, Grebenschikov, Bozhukov, Nadbah, Nevvorotin, and Poroshin departed from the base camp located in a pocket of the left-bank moraine of the Fortambek Glacier (see diagram). 3 hours of walking along the moraine with a marked path, and another 1 hour ascent along the lateral moraine of the unnamed glacier, and then along the glacier itself – exit into the cirque formed by the southern and western ridges of the summit. Here, on the median moraine, they prepared a site and set up a tent. After resting and having lunch at 16:00, when the daytime heat had subsided, Bozhukov, Grebenschikov, and Nadbah went on a reconnaissance sortie to the upper reaches of the "Novator" glacier, as the unnamed glacier was decided to be named. After 2 hours, they returned and reported that: There is, apparently, a good exit to the West Ridge beyond the glacier's bend; There is also an interesting path to the summit along the counterfort of the West Wall.

Ascent to Peak Oshnina (6305) via the "Submarine" spur, route specifics, characteristics of sections, and passage conditions.

Protocol No. 398, January 15, 1975 Report On the ascent to the summit "Podvodnaya Lodka" (5079 m) (approximately category 3B) by a group of climbers from the MAI sports club. The summit "Podvodnaya Lodka" is located in the Central Pamir region, in one of the northern spurs of the Peter the First ridge. Fig. I, ascent scheme. From a sporting perspective, the summit may be of interest for initial acclimatization climbs with the aim of gradual, gentle adaptation to high altitude. Characteristic features of this route, as well as the entire region: Unstable rock formations

Traverse of the peaks of the northwestern spur of the Peter I Range: Oshanina, 30 Years of Soviet State and Moskva; route difficulty category.

Report on the traverse of the peaks of the northwestern spur of the Petra I ridge: Zapadny Oshanina (6305) — Centralny Oshanina (6390) — Vostochny Oshanina (6310) — 30 let Sovetskogo Gosudarstva (6447) — Moskva (6785) with ascent to Zapadny Oshanina peak from the Shini-Bini saddle via the northern ridge (first ascent) Team of Moscow City Council "Burevestnik" Sports Society Team captain: Candidate Master of Sports V. Khomutov. Team coach: Master of Sports Yu. Borodkin. Route Characteristics Peaks included in the traverse:

Report on the first ascent of Peak Oshanin (Trail of the Three Peaks) in 1975 by a team led by Leonid Lozovsky.

Passport First ascent made in 1975 Climbing category — traverse Climbing area — North-West Pamir Climbing route with indication of peaks and their heights — Traverse of the three peaks of Oshanina (6305 m, 6380 m, 6300 m) from Turamys Glacier. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 2450 m. Average steepness 50°. Length of the difficult section 1700 m. Pitons hammered: rock 133 ice 76