Ascent Passport.

1. Ascent category — high-altitude.
2. Ascent area, range — Central Pamir, Akademii Nauk range.
3. Peak, its height, route — p. Kommunizma 7495 m, via the counterfort of the SW slope of the Belyaev Glacier.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 6B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 2825 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1425 m, average steepness up to 6950 m — 55°.
6. Pitons hammered: on bivouacs — 4 rock; for belay: rock — 33, ice — 14.
7. Number of climbing hours — 32.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: three nights at heights 6100, 6700, 6950 m.
9. Full name of the leader and participants:

ASCENT DOCUMENT I. Ascent class - high-altitude 2. Ascent area, ridge - Central Pamir, Academy of Sciences Ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route - Peak Kommunizma, 7495 m, via the counterfort of the SW slope from Belyaev Glacier 4. Difficulty category - 6 5. Route characteristics: height difference - 2800 m length of sections with 5-6 cat. difficulty - 1975 m average steepness (up to 6950 m) - 54° 6. Pitons used: for belaying, for creating intermediate anchors.

INTERNATIONAL ALPINISM CAMP “PAMIR”

REPORT

On the Ascent to Peak Kommunizma

VIA THE SOUTHWEST RIDGE SPUR FROM BEYLYAEV GLACIER

Category of Difficulty: 6th cat.

Team Members:

• STUDENIN B.A.
• KOROVKIN O.A.
• MEDVEDEV V.M.
• CHERNY N.D.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude.
2. Ascent area: Central Pamir, Academy of Sciences range.
3. Peak: Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) via the southwest ridge from Belyaev Glacier.
4. Difficulty category: 6B.
5. Route characteristics:
   • elevation gain 2800 m
   • length of sections R0–R1 diff. cat. — 430 m.
   • average steepness of the ridge — 50°.

Report

On the ascent of Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) via the left edge of the north-eastern wall from the Ordzhonikidze Glacier by the LGS team of "Spartak" DSO

• August 3–17, 1972
• First ascent.

III. General Description of the Route

The eastern ridge of Peak Kommunizma, by which the first ascent was made in 1933, is the right (orographic) side of the Ordzhonikidze Glacier. The orientation of the ridge is close to latitudinal, and its slopes are steep walls exposed to the North. Due to the northern orientation, the walls have significant glaciation, often expressed in the form of hanging glaciers. As one advances towards the upper reaches of the Ordzhonikidze Glacier, the steepness of the walls increases, reaching its maximum at the junction of the main massif of Peak Kommunizma and the ridge leading to Peak Izvestiy. The summit of the North shoulder of the Peak Kommunizma massif (around 4.8 km) is dominant over the Ordzhonikidze Glacier cirque. Here, the ice masses can no longer cling to the slope (steepness reaches 60–65° in the middle and about 80° in the upper part of the wall) and expose rocky outcrops. This is the northern wall of Peak Kommunizma (Photo 2). The wall is bounded on the right by the icefall from the ridge between Peak Kommunizma and Peak Izvestiy, and on the left by a hanging glacier. The rocks are schist. The orientation of the strata is inclined, so the rocky masses intersect the wall from right to left at an angle of about 45°. The icy slopes between the rocky walls and the schistose nature of the massif stimulate frequent avalanches and rockfalls crossing the rocky outcrops. These circumstances deprive climbers of natural shelters and dividing counterforts when ascending the wall centrally.

Championship of the USSR in Alpinism, High-Altitude Class

Report of the CS DSO "Mehnat" Team on the Ascent to Peak Kommunizma 7495 m via the NE Counterfort.

Team Captain: VORONIN V. G. Team Coach: ZEL'CHIEVKOV V. A. Pamir - Tashkent 1970
THE TEAM DEDICATES ITS ASCENT ON PIK KOMMUNIZMA 7495 m TO THE XXIV CONGRESS OF THE CPSU

I. Route Description.

August 10, 1970 - Approach from the Base Camp to the route. August 11, 1970 - Start of the route (R0–R1) on a snowy slope transitioning into an icy slope, bypassing the avalanche cone on the right.

Report

TEAMS OF CS DSO «MEKHNAT» ON ASCENT TO PEAK KOMMUNIZMA VIA NORTH-EAST FACE IN THE PROGRAM OF THE USSR CHAMPIONSHIP IN ALPINISM IN THE HIGH-ALTITUDE CLASS Tashkent — 1978 to Peak Kommunizma 7495 m

Brief Geographical Description and Sporting

Characteristics of the Object

Peak Kommunizma 7495 m is the highest peak in the Pamir Mountains, located at the junction of the Akademiya Nauk and Petra I ranges. The height of the peak was first determined

Central Pamir. Peak Kommunizma (7495 m), North-East Face

Team of the Central Council of the "Trud" Sports Society

Team Composition:

1. Chunovkin G.A. MS — captain, coach
2. Borzov Yu.V. MS — participant
3. Slesov I.V. MS — participant
4. Dzhioev G.L. MS — participant
5. Mikhalev V.E. CMS — participant 1978

Brief Geographical and Sporting Characteristics of the Climbing Area

Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Tajik SSR

Peak Communism

First ascent from the north with an exit to the Pamir Plateau along the wall to the right of the Trampolinny Glacier

I. General Characteristics of the Route and Walls

The ascent route passes to the right of the Trampolinny Glacier, along the northern wall of the Pamir Firn Plateau, with an exit to the plateau, and further, through the Big Barrier, to the summit of Peak Communism. The ascent along the wall with an exit to the plateau is a first ascent. The further ascent to the summit through the Big Barrier is part of the classified route of ascent to Peak Communism from the north via the so-called "Burevestnik Ridge" 5B category of difficulty. The Pamir Firn Plateau with an average elevation of 5800–6100 m (according to literary sources) drops steeply to the north onto the Turamys Glacier with a steep rock-ice wall.

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude class
2. Pamir, Akademiya Nauk Range
3. Peak Kommunizma 7495 m via the left counterfort from Stalin Glacier
4. Proposed – category 5B difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain: 2895 m, length – 5300 m Rock section elevation gain 1780 m, length of rock section – 2320 m Length of grade 5–6 sections – 540 m Average steepness of the rock section – 51°
6. Pitons used: rock 94, chocks 85, ice screws 16