St. Petersburg Climbing Championship 2018 High-Altitude Class

Report on the Ascent to the Summit of Peak Korzhenevskaya via the South Ridge (Tsetlin, 1966) 5A Category of Difficulty

Team Coach: S.A. Semiletkin Team Leader: F.M. Zaliev Team Members:

• A.S. Dusheiko
• S.V. Livandev, St. Petersburg 2018

Ascent Passport

• Region: PAMIR Area: Academy of Sciences Range (western side of Fedchenko Glacier from Yazglemsky Pass in the south to Muksu River in the north with all lateral spurs) Peak Name: Peak Korzhenevskaya, 7105 m

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - high-altitude 2. Ascent area - Central Pamir, Akademiya Nauk Range 3. Peak, its height, ascent route - Peak E. Korzhenevskoi, 7105 m, east face 4. Proposed difficulty category - highest 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain - 2600 m, average slope - 55°, length of sections with 5th difficulty category - 525 m. 6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating intermediate anchors (I.T.O.) rock 21, 8 ice 30, 2

Introduction

Peak Evgenia Korzhenevskaya is the fourth highest seven-thousander in the country (7105 m). Despite being near Peak Kommunizma (7495 m), Peak Evgenia looks very majestic. Its giant summit dome is visible from the Zaalaysky ridge pass from Ters-Agar to Khodzha-Toо. The approaches to it are very difficult:

• The path is blocked by the mighty river of the Pamir - Muk-su;
• But the difficulties do not end there: the path along the left (orogr.) side of Muk-su is often blocked by deep, steep-walled sairs cut by turbulent rivers originating from the glaciers of the Academy of Sciences and Peter the First ridges. The approaches to Peak Evgenia Korzhenevskaya are relatively simple only along the valley of the Mushketov Glacier; from here it looks dazzlingly magnificent. The approach along the Ayu-Dzhilga valley is difficult: the river flows in a narrow canyon. But even having overcome the difficulties of approaching the Ayu-Dzhilga Glacier, one will not feel relief: the path to Peak Evgenia leads up steep, artificially polished black walls. The path along the Fortambek valley is blocked by a canyon of the river only in one place. All routes to Peak Evgenia Korzhenevskaya that have been completed so far start from the Fortambek valley. It is precisely the inaccessibility of the summit that EXPLAINS the rare expeditions aimed at conquering it. Without helicopters, this undertaking is extremely cumbersome. Currently, there are several helicopter landing sites at the foot of the peak, and therefore interest in this summit has increased significantly. Six different routes have been completed, but it cannot be said that the peak is fully explored and climbing it is not challenging. A characteristic feature of most of these high-altitude routes is the high demands they make on the technical preparation of climbers.

Climbing Passport:

1. Pamir, Akademiya Nauk range
2. Peak Korzhenevskoi, 7105 m, via SW ridge (V. Markelov, 1984)
3. Climbing category — 5B
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain: 2500 m Route length: 5000 m Length of sections: category V — 30 m Average slope:

• main part of the route — 60°

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude class
2. Central Pamir
3. Peak Korzhenevskaya, via the Southwest Ridge
4. Proposed - 5B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain: 2800 m, route length 5000 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty - 3000 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 50° (5100–6100 m).
6. Pitons used: rock 23/0

1. Class of ascent — high-altitude;
2. Region of ascent — Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range;
3. Peaks, their height, ascent route: Peak E. Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) with ascent from Moskvina Glacier along the southwest ridge (Markelov's route);
4. Category of difficulty — 5B;
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 3000 m; length of sections: 1st category of difficulty — 1000 m, 2nd category of difficulty — 800 m, 3rd category of difficulty — 300 m, 4th category of difficulty — 740 m, 5th category of difficulty — 160 m; average steepness: 30°;
6. Pitons driven: for creating artificial holds — none, for belaying — 44, of which rock pitons — 4, ice screws — 40, bolt pitons — none;
7. Number of climbing hours: 6+7+10+10+8=41 hours;
8. Number and characteristics of bivouacs: 4 bivouacs, lying down;
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader, participants, and their qualification: Krasnoukhov Yuri Vasilyevich (MS) — team leader

CIS Climbing Championship 2009 Class of High-Altitude Technical Ascent

Report

on the ascent of Peak Korzhenevskoi, 7105 m via the Southwest Ridge, Category 5B (V. Markelov's route) by the team of Sumy Regional Federation of Alpine Sports from July 24 to July 28, 2009 Team Captain: Sergey A. Pugachev Team Coaches:

• Fedor P. Mityukhin
• Mikhail V. Zagirnyak

Passport

1. Altitude class
2. Central Pamir
3. Peak Korzhenevskaya 7105 m via the triangle of the Western wall
4. Proposed — 5B cat. diff., first ascent
5. Height difference: 1900 m, length — 3305 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 765 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 73°. Of which 6 cat. diff. — 85°–120 m.
6. Pitons driven:

USSR ALPINISM FEDERATION Central Council of the SDSO "Burevestnik", Bauman MSTU sports club

Ascent to Peak Evgenia Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) via South Face of the Pamir Mountains. (Report)

Team Coach A. Ovchinnikov Team Captain L. Dobrovolsky Fortambek Glacier — Moscow, 1966 www.alpfederation.ru I. Brief Geographical Description, Exploration, and History of Ascent to Peak Evgenia Korzhenevskaya

Peak Korzhenevskaya 7105 m

Left edge of the western wall of the southern ridge

led by Chochia P.A. 1988

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range, section №4.1 of the route classifier on mountain peaks.
2. Peak Evgenia Korzhenevskaya (7105 m), left edge of the western wall of the southern ridge.
3. Proposed: 5B — 6A difficulty category (first ascent).
4. Route character: combined.
5. Height difference of the route: 1800 m. Route length: 2900 m. Length of sections: