Report

On the ascent of the Chelyabinsk regional council team of the "Zenit" sports society to Peak Kommunizma via the 5B category difficulty route for the "Zenit" Central Sports Council championship in the high-altitude climbing class Chelyabinsk, 1972

Geographical description and sporting characteristics of the ascent route

Peak Kommunizma (7495) rises at the junction of the Peter the First and Academy of Sciences ridges (Fig. 1). The main questions of the orography of the Peak Kommunizma mountain node were resolved in 1932 by an expedition of the USSR Academy of Sciences. To the northeast of the peak lies the powerful Bivachny glacier, and to the southeast of the summit, at an altitude of 6000–6100 m, lies the "Pravda" peak plateau. To the northwest of the summit, at an altitude of 5700–6000 m, along the Peter the First ridge for ten kilometers, lies the Pamir firn plateau, representing an almost flat snow field. The summit tower of Peak Kommunizma descends steeply on the north and west with rocky slopes. To the west, at an altitude of 6900 m (Photo 1, R11), it is adjoined by a horizontal slope - the "Shoulder" of Peak Kommunizma - which forms the "Big Barrier" of the plateau. From the shoulder, a snow-ice slope descends to the plateau (northwest) with a clearly defined counterfort (Photo 1, R8–R10). This path was first taken by the VTsSPS expedition led by K. Kuzmin in 1957 to reach Peak Kommunizma. The ascent to the plateau was explored and made from the side of the Garmo glacier. And in 1968, three expeditions of the "Burevestnik" sports society conquered Peak Kommunizma from the side of the Fortambek glacier, ascending to the plateau via the "Burevestnik" ridge. Our team chose this route to conquer the highest point of the Soviet Union. Out of nine routes by which Peak Kommunizma has been conquered, this route is one of the safest and is classified as 5B category difficulty (all routes to Peak Kommunizma are rated not lower than 5B category).

Ascent Passport

1. Region, valley, section number according to the classification table (2001) - 4.1 Mountain region: Pamir (Tajikistan) Range: at the junction of Akademiya Nauk and Petra Pervogo.
2. Name of the peak: Kommunizm (7495 m), route name: via S slope from Walter's Glacier through BSP and "Big Barrier" (Borodkin's variant via Dushanbe Pass)
3. Category of difficulty – 5Ba
4. Route type: snow-ice
5. Height difference of the route: 3000 m Route length: 7250 m.

I. High-altitude class. 2. Pamir. Akademiya Nauk Range. 3. Peak Kommunizma, 7495 m, via the northern route through p. 6950 m (Borodkin) 4. Difficulty category — 5A 5. Elevation gain: 3300 m average slope of the route 40° section lengths:

• R2 — 1200 m
• R3 — 4000 m
• R4 — 600 m

Russian Mountaineering Championship

High-altitude class

2018

REPORT of the Rostov-Arkhangelsk region team on the ascent of Peak Kommunizma via the Borodkin route

Ascent Details

1. Region: 4. PAMIR 4.1. Academy of Sciences range (western side of Fedchenko glacier from Yazgulyam pass in the south to Muksu river in the north with all lateral spurs)

Report

On ascending the peak of Ismoila Somoni (formerly Peak Kommunizma) via the southern slope from Walter Glacier, BPP, and "Big Barrier" ("Classics") - ice-snow route, category 5A difficulty, by the "Bars" team from August 11, 2022, to August 20, 2022.

I. Ascent Report

	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the team leader	Dusheyko Alexander Sergeyevich, 1st sports rank
1.2	Full name, sports rank of participants	Belyankina Natalia Pavlovna, 1st sports rank (at the time of the ascent, it was pending but not registered)
1.3	Full name of the coach	Torshin Mikhail Viktorovich, 1st sports rank

41. Kommunizma. P. Budanov, 68.

4.1.40. Brief geographical description. Sporting characteristics of the ascent object and route conditions

The highest point in the USSR - Peak Kommunizma -32,7495 m, is located in the Academy of Sciences Range in the Central Pamir. This area is quite frequently visited by mountaineering expeditions and is fairly well studied both geographically and in terms of mountaineering. The rocky formations in this area are quite brittle and fragile, posing an objective danger when overcome. A large amount of precipitation falls in the area of the Academy of Sciences Range, and the weather is quite unstable with strong winds. After the first ascent by E.M. Abalakova in 1933 via the W ridge, a large number of ascents to Peak Kommunizma have been made from various sides, and this year saw the largest number of climbers. A total of 62 people reached the summit, including the first woman.

2. Reconnaissance

July 17-21, a group consisting of Kletsko K.B., Agranovskii G.L., and Kletsko B.B. went to the area of height 4600 m (the location of the previous expedition's assault camp at the junction of the Kommunizma and Ordzhonikidze glaciers) to receive cargo dropped by helicopter and to visually observe the state of the route.

4.1.41.

Alpinism Federation of the Lithuanian SSR

Report on the ascent via the eastern counterfort of Peak Kommunizma to 6500 m by the team of the Committee for Physical Culture and Sports of the Lithuanian SSR

1971 Team composition:

• G. Bernatonis — captain
• E. Adomaitis
• D. Makauskas — coach
• S. Miglinas
• V. Šaduikis

41

COMBAT TRAINING DEPARTMENT OF TURKESTAN MILITARY DISTRICT COMMITTEE FOR PHYSICAL CULTURE AND SPORTS UNDER THE COUNCIL OF MINISTERS OF UZSSR REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF THE HIGHEST POINT IN THE USSR – STALIN PEAK (height 7495 m) VIA THE EAST RIDGE Tashkent 1958 ROUTE SCHEMATIC OF THE ASCENT TO STALIN PEAK (Height 7495 m)

I. Geographical Location and Sporting Characteristics of Stalin Peak

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — High-altitude
2. Ascent area — Central Pamir, Bivachny Glacier
3. Ascent route with peak names and elevations — East ridge of Peak Kommunizma, 7495 m
4. Ascent description: height difference 2895 m, average slope 40°, complex section length — 277 m
5. Number of pitons used: rock — 23, ice — none, bolted — none
6. Total climbing hours — 28 h 30 min
7. Number of bivouacs and their description — six: during ascent — on 4600 m № 1, on 5900 m № 2, on 6400 m № 3, on 6900 m № 4; during descent — on 6900 m № 4, on 5600 m № 5. All bivouacs were lying down and comfortable.

Altai Regional Alpine Federation

For the Championship of the Soviet Union in the class of high-altitude ascents.

Report

on the ascent of Peak Kommunizma (7495 meters) via the counterfort from the Belyaev Glacier (sixth category of difficulty) Barnaul, 1969

I. Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the ascent object

In the center of the North-Western Pamir, at the junction of two ridges – Peter the First and Academy of Sciences, on the territory of the Tajik SSR is located the highest peak of the Soviet Union – Peak Kommunizma. The area of Peak Kommunizma, which has a height of 7495 meters above sea level, is the most elevated part of the Pamir. The snow line in this area is at an altitude of 4000–4300 m. The sharply continental climate creates favorable conditions for the formation of ice, which covers the slopes of the ridges, peaks, and, sliding down from them, accumulates in the valleys. For example, glaciers:

• Fedchenko
• Garmo
• Gando