General Information about the Peak
Peak Elvira Shatayeva (5690 m) is located in one of the lateral ridges branching off from the Peter the First Ridge (Central Pamir). The peak was first conquered in 1974 by a group led by V. Shatayev. The ascent was made along the southwestern slopes of the peak from the Tanymas Glacier.
In 1976, a group of Ukrainian climbers made the first ascent to the peak from the east, 25.
Group composition:
- I. Kovtun V.G. — MS — leader
- Galas F. — IMS — participant
- Podgorsky V.M. — IMS — participant
- Tkachenko V.F. — 1st category — participant
- Okhrimenko V.N. — 1st category — participant
- Kovtun N.P. — 1st category — participant
- Nedosekova S.S. — 1st category — participant
Route Description
From the Sulovyev clearing, the path passes along the grassy slopes and scree of the left (orographic) bank of the Fortambek Glacier.
After ascending the grassy rise, the glacier flowing from under the slopes of Peak Sulovyev is visible ahead.
Move in the direction of this glacier, crossing the scree and grassy slopes. Further:
- Bypass the glacier along the left-bank moraine
- Ascend to the flattening part of the glacier
- Move to the median moraine
- Cross the glacier in the direction of a clearly visible scree couloir on the slopes of Peak Elvira Shatayeva
- Reach the right bank of the glacier
The path of ascent along the moraine and crossing the glacier is not complicated. There is a bivouac here.
From the Sulovyev clearing, it takes 3–3.5 hours. Along the scree couloir, in the left part of the slopes of Peak E. Shatayeva, ascend to the ridge. The couloir is the only logical path in this part of the slopes, clearly visible and safe. It leads to the ridge.
From the ridge:
- a small descent with a traverse to the right to the beginning of the rocky couloir;
- straight up the couloir until reaching the large scree slopes.
In the couloir, there are places with snow and formed ice. Insurance is provided through a ledge. ROCKFALL HAZARD!