Climbing Passport. 5.2.110 Climbing Class: Rock (Combined) Climbing Area: Igizakov area (5.2.) Peak, its height, and climbing route: "Ular", 3900 m via the Northwest Ridge, cat. dif. "Ular" Estimated Difficulty Category: 3A Route Characteristics: Height difference: 300 m Average steepness: 50° Section lengths: 2–150 m; II–100 m; III–240 m; Pitons driven:

Ascent to the peak ULAR from the Ular glacier via the NW ridge — cat. III

The ascent to the peak is made from the "Zelenaya polyana" bivouac located below the peak Bivachnaya. From the camp, one should go upstream along the stream flowing from the cirque of the peaks Khamsli, Ular, Khyrс, Kulay Dzovanon, to the old lateral moraine of the Ular glacier. From the moraine, ascend the snowfield (25–30°) to the Ular glacier plateau, which is crossed to the left in the direction of the Ular massif (its NW ridge), leaving the Vorob'inyi pass to the right. The ascent route to the NW ridge goes along the rib to the left of the third couloir (counting from the bottom) from the Ular glacier plateau. The couloir is steep and narrow and leads to the saddle of the NW ridge. Start the ascent via this couloir. Approaching the bergschrund, leave the steep snowy couloir leading to the gap in the NW ridge to the right (hereinafter referred to as the gap between the 1st and 2nd jandarmes), cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge, or if the bridge is absent, descend into the crevasse.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Gissar Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Ular, 4000 m, via the southern counterfort. S. wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: a) Height difference — 250 m. b) Length of sections with 4A difficulty category – 50 m, 3rd category – 200 m. c) Average steepness — 60°.
6. Pitons driven:

Protocol № 052.788 Climbing category — Visual. Climbing area — Ugizakov area. Peak, its height and ascent route — Ular, 3700 m, via the counterfort of the southern wall. Proposed difficulty category — 3B. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m, average steepness — 30°, length of sections: 1. 110 m,

1. Class of ascent — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Gissar Ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Festivalnaya, 4350 m via the Left northern counterfort.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: a/. Height difference — 400 m; b/. Length of sections with 4A category difficulty – 145 m; c/. Length of sections with 3B category difficulty – 370 m; d/. Average steepness — 50°.
6. Number of pitons driven:

Description of the First Ascent to the Festivalnaya Peak via the North Face

The Festivlnaya peak is located in the upper reaches of the Mama River, in the southern spur of the Hissar Range - south of the Proni Siam and South Siam peaks. This spur stretches from north to south and sharply turns east near the Festivlnaya peak. There are two Festivlnaya peaks:

• Eastern
• Western (main, height 4350 m), which are elevations on a massive ridge stretching in a latitudinal direction. A route along the ridge from east to west was previously traversed and is rated as a 4A category route. The northern slopes of the peak are steep, with snow-covered rocks and steep snow and ice couloirs in many places. A significant snow and ice couloir descends from the saddle between the Eastern and Western peaks. The rocks on the left (in the direction of travel) bank of the couloir are heavily destroyed, and stones are constantly falling from there. To the right of the couloir, there are two counterforts separated by a snowy slope, and ascent routes to the peak are possible via both.

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category — rock.
2. Ascent area — Igizak area, Gissar ridge.
3. Khamsoya Central peak (3640 m) via the western edge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m, length of sections with 3–4 difficulty category — 160 m, average steepness — 65°
6. Pitons driven: for belaying: rock — 4

38. Hamsøya Central summit, from Bezymyannyi pass, category III, fig. 17

From the "Green Glade" bivouac, follow the stream flowing from the ice amphitheater towards Bezymyannyi pass. The ascent to the pass is over snow and talus. Hamsøya is a ridge with three summits oriented in a meridional direction. From the pass, head south towards the North summit. The first sentinels are bypassed on the left. The rocks are crumbling. A ridge approaches the North summit from the left. Before reaching the ridge, ascend slightly to the right. Reach the summit without ascending onto the main ridge. The descent from the North summit is over easy rocks along a narrow ridge towards the col between the North and Central summits. Then descend down to the right from the ridge and follow a series of ledges to reach the col. The ascent to the Central summit from the col is up a smooth 10 m wall via a crack. Protection is piton. Then reach large smooth slabs. They are traversed via a crack. Moving left along large boulders, reach the Central summit. Between the Central and South summits lies a deep gap. The descent from the summit is over smooth, stepped rocks. Bypass the sentinel on the right via a wide ledge and descend into the col below the South summit via a couloir, which drops off with a negative smooth slab. From the col, descend down to the right along a steep couloir, then follow the valley to the bivouac. The ascent takes 7 hours. Fig. 17.

REPORT

on the first ascent to the summit of Khamsoya South (Hissar Range) approximately 4A category of difficulty, accomplished on August 24, 1979. 200 m, V–6, 190 m, 65°, 48/5 rock pitons, 7/2 chocks, 17 hours. Leader: V. M. Goncharenko. Participants:

• V. Yan
• T. V. Kubonina
• S. S. Sobolev
• V. I. Klestov

2. Climbing area — Igyzakh area, Hissar Range.
3. Peak Khamsoya Yuzhnaya (3715 m) via the western wall spur.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m, length of sections with 5-6 difficulty grade — 190 m, average steepness — 65°
6. Pitons driven: for belay for creating s.p. rock — 48, ice — 5

bolts