Ascent Record

1. Area — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.

2. Peak — Parus via the center of the S wall.

3. Proposed — 6A category of difficulty, first ascent.

4. Nature of the route — rock climbing

5. Route characteristics:

   height difference of the route — 500 m. route length — 550 m. length of sections with 6 category of difficulty — 300 m, 5 category of difficulty — 100 m.

Average steepness

main part of the route — 77°. entire route — 72°.

6. Items left on the route: pitons — 3, including bolted pitons — 3; " закладок" — 1.

Pitons used on the route

bolted stationary pitons — 3, including ITO — 0. removable bolted pitons — 7, including ITO — 5. Total ITO used — 145, including skyhooks — 21.

7. Number of climbing hours — 18.5, days — 1, including acclimatization.

8. Leader — Khvostenko Oleg Valerievich, Master of Sports

   Team members:

   • Glazyrin Yuri Evgenievich, Candidate for Master of Sports
   • Pugovkin Anton Nikolaevich, Master of Sports
   • Prokofiev Denis Evgenievich, Candidate for Master of Sports

9. Team coaches:

   • Balezin Valery Viktorovich, International Master of Sports
   • Zakharov Nikolai Nikolaevich, International Master of Sports, Honored Coach of Russia

10. Departure date:

    to the route — June 10, 2001 at 6:00. to the summit — June 11, 2001 at 0:30. return — June 11, 2001 at 3:30.

11. Organization: Krasnoyarsk Kraisportkomitet.

Peak Parus S wall Center of the NE wall, Khvostenko, 2001.

Area Panorama

(taken from p. Konus, 2015 m.)

1. p. Zub Drakona, 2021 m.
2. p. Parus
3. p. Dinosaur, 2221 m.
4. p. Zvezdny, 2265 m.
5. p. Ptitsa, 2150 m. a) per. Dinozavrik (1B) b) per. Pikantny (1B) в) per. Zvezdny (2A)

Approach from the base camp on Svetloe lake past Zolotoe lake through the passes:

• Zeleny
• Bliznetsy. Time required: 4.5–5 hours. Storm camp on Ledyanoye lake directly below the S wall of p. Parus. 10 minutes to the start of the route.

UIAA Scheme

Peak Parus 2135 m. S wall. Technical photograph of the route

Route Description by Sections

The route starts at the base of the wall on a large monolithic slab. The lower part of the slab has a steepness of 40–45°. The steepness of the slab gradually increases.

Section 1. On the monolithic slab 45°, 100 m, free climbing (two ropes tied together). Belay station at a серповидный откол (sickle-shaped flake).

Section 2. Through the flake, via a crack 8 m. Overhang (40 cm) directly. Monolithic slab 65°, 50 m, all free climbing (rope extended). Belay station at the start of an internal corner.

Section 3. Internal corner with a crack 8 m. Slab with ledges and cracks 60°, 40 m. Belay station under an overhang in a flake.

Section 4. Crack 8 m. Diagonal ledge with grass. Wall 4 m, ITO. Left under the overhang via a crack. Flake with a crack 4 m, exit right onto a slab. Slab 20 m. Crack 6 m. Belay station under an overhang.

Section 5. Diagonal crack with grass up and right 15 m. Along a grassy ledge right 10 m.

Section 6. Overhanging corner (flake) 15 m, transitioning into a vertical section. Move right onto a slab. Slab 75°, 20 m, ends in a crack 10 m. Through the crack to a ledge. Corner 4 m. Belay station on a grassy ledge.

Section 7. Diagonal ledge with grass up and right 10 m. Chimney 20 m, transitioning into an internal corner 20 m. Belay station in the corner.

Section 8. Do not ascend to the end of the internal corner; instead, traverse to the left wall with cracks and ascend diagonally left 15 m. Reach an internal corner 25 m, ITO. The corner ends in an overhang (0.5 m). Overhang is traversed directly. Crack 8 m, ITO. Belay station on a grassy ledge.

Section 9. Diagonal crack up and right 8 m. Internal corner 10 m. Do not ascend to the end of the corner; instead, traverse right around the corner. Wall 30 m with cracks and flakes. Belay station on a ledge.

Section 10. Wall 15 m, ascended using skyhooks, generally left and up into a crack with flakes. Crack 10 m, ITO. Belay station under a large overhang on a sloping ledge (removable Petzl). Control tour under the overhang in a crack.

Section 11. Traverse left along a crack under the overhang 6 m. Overhang (0.5 m) directly via a crack. Crack 100°, 15 m to an overhang. Under the overhang, removable Petzl. Overhang (1.5 m) directly via a crack. Crack 100°, 20 m. Hanging belay station on a bolted Petzl.

Section 12. Crack 95°, 10 m to an overhang. Overhang (1 m) directly. Crack 15 m. Overhang (0.5 m) bypassed on the left via a crack. Belay station beyond a bend.

Section 13. Inclined slab 35°, 50 m.

Section 6. Khvostenko O., free climbing.

Section 10. Pugovkin A. ascends a monolithic slab on skyhooks.