Ascent Passport

1. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki Ridge, p.6.2

2. Peak — Ptitsa, 2221 m, via "Sickle" of the SE wall

3. Claimed — 2B category difficulty — first ascent

4. Route character — rock

5. Route characteristics:

   height difference — 200 m, total route length — 325 m. length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 15 m, 4th category difficulty — 60 m, 3rd category difficulty — 70 m. average steepness of the entire route 50°

6. Equipment used on the route: cams (friends) — 21, stoppers — 9, bolt (permanent) — 1

7. Number of climbing hours — 5 hours. Days — 1

8. Leader: Zhigalov Alexander Vladimirovich, Master of Sports

   Participant: Lazorsky Sergey Vladimirovich, 2nd sports category

9. Team coaches:

   Balezin Valery Viktorovich, Master of Sports of International Class, Honored Trainer of Russia Zakharov Nikolai Nikolaevich, Master of Sports of International Class, Honored Trainer of Russia

10. Departure date:

    On the route — at 13:00, August 12, 2017. On the summit — at 18:00, August 12, 2017.

11. Responsible for the report: Zhigalov Alexander Vladimirovich, phone: 8-983-574-84-88

    Email: 0jog@bk.ru

12. The ascent was organized by — the Ministry of Sports of the Krasnoyarsk Krai, as part of the training camp "Sayan Vertical – 2017-2".

General photo of the wall 1 — 2B, Boyarskaya T., 1997 2 — first ascent line 3 — 4A, Balezin V., 1996 4 — 4B, Gunko V., 2008

Ptitsa Peak, 2221 m

Photopanorama of the area

Photopanorama of the area

Team tactics

During the "Sayan Vertical – 2017-2" training camp, the team of Lazorsky Sergey and Zhigalov Alexander completed an ascent of Ptitsa Peak — 2221 m via a new route "along the Sickle of the SE wall".

The start is 100 meters to the left of the beginning of Balezin V.'s route — 4A category difficulty. The line runs between the routes:

• Boyarskaya T. — 2B, 1997
• Balezin V. — 4A, 1996

It passes through the characteristic "Sickle" of the southeast wall, a fairly logical route. The route turned out to be an order of magnitude more complicated than the existing routes to Ptitsa Peak: Boyarskaya T. — 2B, 1997 and Borisova Yu. — 2A, 1998. The route line is longer, with sections of good climbing, vertical walls with slots.

Descent was made via the classic route — 2A, three rappel sections of 10–50 m.

Description by sections

Section R0–R1 — The start of the route is 100 meters to the left of the beginning of Balezin V.V.'s route, 4A category difficulty. A control cairn is made of stones. From the cairn, left, bypassing the wall along a ledge, approach under a steep wall with a slot.

Section R1–R2 — In the right part of the wall, climb up through a thin slot to the bend. Beyond the bend, through a series of slots with grass and ledges, exit to a ledge. Then, on the right, along a more gentle wall with a medium-sized slot, climb up. Exit to a large ledge to a large stable boulder. Belay station. Along the ledge to the right, you can exit approximately to the middle part of Balezin V.V.'s route, 4A category difficulty.

Section R2–R3 — Along the ledge from the boulder, traverse left for 15 m, then climb up through the "Sickle", overgrown with grass. Exit to a small ledge on the wall under a vertical expanding crevice.

Section R3–R4 — Up the crevice directly, technical climbing, the slot narrows. Then, along a smooth slab, traverse right 1.5–2 m towards a large internal angle.

Section R4–R5 — Enter the large inclined internal angle. Up it, exit to the ridge to Balezin's route.

Section R5–R6 — With a small pendulum move right to the penultimate rope of Balezin's 4A route. Up a steep internal angle for 3 meters. Enter a gentle internal angle, a couloir. Up it, exit to the shoulder.

Section R6–R7 — From the shoulder, a horizontal traverse between large rock blocks, protection on the terrain and the only bolt on the route, Borisova 2B.

Section R7–R8 — Up the slot, at this section all routes to Ptitsa Peak converge. Exit to the summit to the control cairn.

Descent via the classic route — 2A category difficulty, Boyarskaya.

Ptitsa Peak, 2221 m Technical photo of the route

Start of the route, sections R0–R2

Passage of section R1–R2

Sections R1–R3

Passage of the upper part of section R1–R2

Passage of section R2–R3

Passage of section R3–R4

Section R4–R5

Passage of section R6–R7

Zhigalov A. and Lazorsky S. on Ptitsa Peak — 2221 m

Note on the summit

NOTE ON THE SUMMIT "ZA" k/tr, August 12, 2017, hour 11 min 35 a group of climbers consisting of:

1. Ivanov Vi
2. Drone 4.4 (OCR: Stoyan I.I.)
3. Borochikina EA
4. Startsev An
5. Gavrilyuk ke
6. Volkov AB
7. Suravshen DC
8. Andrey
9. Ulankova N.V completed an ascent to Ptitsa Peak via route 3A along the S. ridge counterfort having departed from a bivouac located on Svetloe Lake meteorological conditions excellent planned descent route 24 descent started at 12 hour 15 min. note taken by a group that completed an ascent via route "24" k/tr. August 12, 20 Remarks:

Note from the control cairn