Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Ptitsa peak, height 2150 m, SE buttress, route character — rock climbing.
4. Estimated difficulty category 3A.
5. Route characteristics:

elevation gain 400 m; section lengths: 3rd diff. cat. — 140 m, 4th diff. cat. — 80 m; average steepness of the route — 45–50°.

6. Used rock protection — 5/0 (numerator — total quantity, denominator — for creating artificial anchor points).
7. Number of moving hours — 5 hours.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: none.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, their qualification: Railko Yuri Borisovich 2nd sports category Cheresov Sergey Vladimirovich 2nd sports category.
10. Team coach Zakharov N. N. Master of Sports of Russia International Class.
11. Date of departure on the route (summit) and return: June 29, 1997.
12. Organization

Ptitsa 2150, June 29, 1997

General photograph of the route on Ptitsa peak via SE buttress 3A category. Route scheme in YUAA symbols.

Brief explanations for the scheme

R0–R2. To the start of the route, approach along a clearly defined inclined ledge of the SE buttress, starting from the left edge of the wall. Movement in rope teams to the spool and further along the ledge to the ridge of the buttress.

R2–R3. Start of the route — passage of three walls with steepness ≈60° 4th diff. cat. Passed with free climbing.

R3–R4. Approach along the rib to the wall 3rd diff. cat.

R4–R5. Passage of the 7 m wall with free climbing and further along the ridge.

R5–R6. Movement along the ridge of the buttress with simultaneous belay to the internal angle.

R6–R7. Internal angle 75 m, steepness 45°, 3rd diff. cat.

R7–R8. Section with steepness 60°, 4th diff. cat., walls 4–7 m, 2 belay points, exit to the pre-summit ledge.

R8–R9. Wall 70°, 4th diff. cat., 35–40 m, 3 belay points.